Ikumi Beach, Japan:  Many Classic Moments…

How to get good waves everyday: Timing is EVERYTHING!

Good morning 4:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and little bumpy.
Diamond Head chest high and better.
South winds at 5mph.
Sun, clouds, rain, and warm.
Going foiling.
Have a wonderful day!

i’m walking on a secluded beach in the morning.  nobody around, sun rising, golden sand, only my footsteps, and i’m jumping in for a surf.  it’s times like this that make me love Hawaii more than ever.  i’m an early bird…

i’m flying down a wave in the morning, nobody around, clouds forming, blinding glare, and i’m feeling like a bird that’s going to crash into the ocean.  somehow i make it, ride it to the white sandy beach, and go home smiling.  i’m an eagle…