i’ve been driving by the rail project and every time i see it, i kind of feel sad.  it costs too much, it supposed to be completed already, and there is no end.  and guess who’s paying for it?  yes, us Hawaii locals!greed?  money?  politics?  waste?  all of that!thank goodness for the ocean because once i jump in, i feel refreshed.  and this little South Swell is making me happy!backlight means taking a photo with the sun in the back.  this is what it looks like.  dark but good feeling. and frontlight means taking the photo with the sun in the front.  this is when you see all the beautiful colors magnified.  i’m still tripping out on the full moon i saw the other morning.  it was crazy cool!

Have a Swell of a Day!

Good morning 4:45am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

when i woke up this morning, i knew there was going to be an amazing sunrise.  and there it was!

and i knew there was going to be an amazing rainbow.  and there it was.

and i knew there was going to be amazing waves.  and yes it was.

and i knew it would be crowded by 7am.  and yes it was.

but nothing matters when you can sit in the ocean and watch the sky change colors by the minute.  i foiled Kaisers until i was stratified.  that only took 40 minutes.

then i caught a wave and pumped my foil to Rockpiles.  said hello to the boys and girls, then pumped one down to Bowls.  then caught one and rode it to the parking lot.  the most intense cardio workout ever!

today was the day when Mayuki got to go back to her ocean.  i did some final maintenance and was ready to go.

look how shiny she is!  it’s like brand new!