gosh, it’s already October but this Summer weather in Hawaii is not ending anytime soon.  it’s absolutely beautiful!if you have the right board, you will have a great time.  in this case, the longboard is the right board.i just love this photo.  there is Ryo doing a nice cutback while Maki-san and i watch.  i can’t wait till the next good day at Diamond Head again!morning surf crew and afternoon surf crew is so different.  i think there are twice the amount of surfer girls in the afternoon.  super happy and super sunburnt.  haha. this is called “carbon fiber.”  it’s strong, and it’s light.  this is what all my foil boards are made of.  oh, and i forgot, it’s EXPENSIVE!!!for the past 2 weeks, i’ve been trying to find a way to get my new boards home from Bali.  then Mike sends me this photo yesterday so i immediately text Joshua, “hey, please bring back Unko’s boards!”  he said “ok.”  gosh, i love my nephews!  and now i love you even more Josh!

Yamari Power!

Good morning 4:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Going foiling.
Have a wonderful day!

the past 2 days have been flat so when i got up this morning in the dark and seen some little waves breaking, i was so happy!  nobody knew there were waves because the parking lot was empty, and so were the lineups.  and it’s Sunday!  only a few know the best time of day to be in the ocean.  and that is right about now…Carter and i have been foiling a lot recently.  and in this sport, the only way to get better is to practice.  and if you practice, you will be able to turn like this.  but before that, you will have the biggest wipeouts of your life.  haha.i couldn’t believe how good the waves were this morning.  and i couldn’t believe how empty it was.  i must have caught 15 waves in the 2 hours we were out.  then after my refreshing morning session, i went to work on Mayuki.  i’m making every little thing perfect.  tomorrow i’m putting her back where she belongs, in the ocean!  yeah!!!