i went out to Bowls at the perfect time again because only had 2 locals out. and right when i got out, one of them was catching his last wave in. check out Troy on a very perfect wave…
then he came right up to me and did a really nice power turn!
when you see spray like this, it means you put a lot of effort into the maneuver. and it feels so good! after Troy went in, i foiled for 2 hours and was loving life…
Mateus has been taking care of my gardenia plants. and look how big it’s gotten!
this kid is so funny! every thing he does he makes me laugh so much…
look at his face!!! haha!!!! coming home after a long day in the ocean to a funny kid like this is total happiness. i really think he could be a comedian when he gets old. in fact, he can start now. haha…
i always teach this to my students: just because somebody is paddling for a wave, that doesn’t mean they will guarantee catch it. so instead of letting that wave go, be on full alert to turn around and go.
then when somebody misses the wave, like how this longboard girl just did, it’s a free wave for you so you better be ready to be on it! in this case, i got it! haha…
my new goal is to do an off the lip. it’s very risky with a foil because you are going so fast. so the trick is the same as short boarding. when doing your bottom turn, you adjust your speed and get ready to commit a 100%. so in this photo, i already know where i’m going, which is the top of the lip!
then before you get there, you better have a plan on getting back down. and once again, you better be fully committed or else you will get hurt. i remember telling myself “i’m going to do this so easily.” some positive thinking i guess. haha…
then when you make the hardest part of the maneuver, you straighten up and hang on for your life. on a foil, you’re going 4x faster than a shortboard so you better be ready. up until now, this has to be the best maneuver i did so far on my foil. and the cool thing is it was kind of easy. next time i’m going to be even more wild!
The Swan…
