i timed it perfectly again today and got Bowls super nice and uncrowded.  i can’t believe how good the waves have been!!!

this is the main peak at Bowls and today i only counted 3 locals.  the others were beginners.  so yeah, if you can surf decently, you could catch any wave you wanted.  i ended up catching 16 waves!

i caught 16 waves like this but since i can pump into more waves, i actually rode 25 waves.   i had one of the most peaceful sessions in a long time.  i was in my own world and this was it…

been seeing this surfer in the water and was surprised on his waterproof mask.

he wears it while he’s surfing!  he must be a very responsible man…

so happy to see the Kenosuke-san family!  always happy and good to see the boys getting bigger and stronger like Daddy…

Kimura-san loving his life in Wakayama with his grandkids.  he hasn’t been able to travel recently so i’m sure he’s going crazy just like me.  but when this pandemic is over, i’m sure we’ll be on the first flight to Bali!

Don’t drop in…Split the peak…Get ready for the bottom turn…Off the top…Sets like this all morning…Setting up for the turn…And this is the turn…

Waves: Chest to head high.
Wind: Light off shore winds at 15mph.
Weather: Perfectly sunny.
Water: 80 degrees and very warm.
Air: Clean and fresh.
Crowd: 15 guys out having fun.
Overall: Excellent!

Yesterday at the Bowl.  Endless Summer swells…

Good morning 5am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head shoulder high and good.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going to the ocean.

Have a wonderful day!