i went out to Bowls this morning and it was super good.  better than the past few days.  shoulder high perfection…and some head high sets.  i took out my camera, got a few shots, and foiled for 3 hours straight!  if you ever see a girl flying down Diamond Head or Ala Moana on a skateboard, this is her.  she’s from Costa Rica and surfs pretty good, but skateboards even better.  and she knows how to do nice turns like this.always good to see Trinko out at the Bowl…as for my joy today, i foiled for 3 hours and only came in because i was so thirsty.  shoulder high waves and flying off the top like this is the most exciting thing i’ve ever done in my life.  i can’t wait for tomorrow morning to do this all over again!!!

for the past week, there has been a fish bait ball right off the shore at Kaimana Beach.  then the sharks have been coming by for dinner.  super cool to see…people are concerned about this rare occurrence.  no, this is not rare.  this is nature.  this is how Hawaii use to be before the tourists.  and now that the most famous beaches are empty, nature is returning.  so yeah, this is normal and i hope we see these kind of beautiful things more often…i’ve been sending Micah videos of foiling and been trying to get him back on the foil for the past months.  finally, he called me and said “hey unko, i’m buying a new foil today so lets go!”  i said “of course!!!”  i was so happy to be flying with the guy that introduced the foil to me, which changed my life…this is called “family bonding.”  unko and nephew sharing a wave together.  this is what makes me happy.  welcome back Micah Moniz!  my first round i caught 20 waves and foiled for 3 hours.  came in, ate a burrito, and went straight back out for 15 waves and 2 hours.  i haven’t had such a great ocean workout for a very long time.  this was my last wave and it felt like i just completed 2 marathons.  i was so tired after this last wave that i almost needed a wheelchair…

Shot of the Day:  Daniel @ Ala Moana Bowls…

Good morning 3:45am.

Ala Moana waist to chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head shoulder high and good.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going foiling.

Have a wonderful day!