i’ve been loving the full moon high tides!it’s perfect for my foil.  i can basically foil anywhere on the island and not worry about hitting the bottom. i’m so happy i can pull up to the beach and decide whether to foil or surf.  been surfing on the low tides, and foiling on the high tides.  and the waves have been excellent!  some of Kelia’s very close friends are helping her with her house.  so as i’m working on things, i can hear their girls talk.  i’m just keeping quiet and laughing inside.  their friendship is so solid so it’s more like a family.  all good girls with golden hearts…if you guys don’t know, Kelia is a very hard worker.  she’s not the type to sit around and wait.  she knows what has to be done and she does it without hesitation.  even if it’s dirty, she’ll do it without any complaints.  at the same time, she’s the sweetest girl you will ever meet.  family and friends are everything to her…

Full Moon and Coconut trees:  Happy Mother’s Day to all you Mother’s out there!!!

Good morning 6am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going to exercise.

Have a wonderful day!

today i really wanted to try my new board somewhere where nobody was out.  just felt like connecting to the ocean and being in a peaceful place.  Bowls didn’t look to peaceful.  and it was only 6:30am!  i still can’t believe how many surfers are in the water these days.  took out my brand new 5’10 which i will call “Momotaro.”  and from my very first wave, Momotaro and i connected.  i did 3 off the lips and a cutback.  i didn’t want my session to end.  so happy to get another magic board! i went diving outside Waikiki and found these 2 fins on the bottom of the ocean in about 20′ deep water.  if it’s yours, i’ll give it back to you so just let me know.  then spent the rest of the day at Kelia’s house.  all the girls were there helping out so it was super fun.  if this is what retired life is like, i really like it!