omg, i pulled up to Diamond Head at 5:45am and the street parking was already full! the full moon was so beautiful!
surfed with the full moon on the West, and the sunrise on the East. days like this i love the most…
i was done by 7:30 and i felt completely satisfied. caught 15 waves and flew like a bird. the waves couldn’t have been any better…
after that, i was kind of nervous because i went for my first ever skin cancer check. both my parents had spots of skin cancer on their face so i thought i’d better go get my first exam. sitting in the office thinking “what if?”
the doctor came in, checked my full body and said “no cancer. and your skin is perfect.” what a relief because i’m in the sun more than anyone else i know. so lucky…
now that i have time, i’m going to dig up old photos like this. i use to go to the park and watch the kids playing baseball. this is Isaiah, Kelia, and Micah Moniz. every time i would watch them, i would say “when are you kids going to come surfing with Uncle Kirby?” they would say “no.” i already knew they would be surfers at some point in time. and sure enough, right after they got bored of chasing the baseball, they started surfing. and look where they are now. pretty funny…
Super Pink Full Moon Surf Session!
last month when Kelia paddled out to Bowls, i was super stoked to have my camera. she’s one of the most photogenic surfers in the world. every photo i’ve taken of her for the past 20 years was gold! whenever she passes by me, i always yell “Do Something!” on this pass by, she did this, which is more than just something. style is everything…
another photogenic surfer is Seira-chan. i can follow her on one wave and get every photo i’m looking for. this walk was amazing. style is everything…
looking at photos like this is freaky for me. it’s all rental cars stored on Maui because of the lockdown. it makes me realize how dependent our islands are on tourism. after this is all over with, i hope we can find a better balance. because balance is everything…
