Free Money…

i went to surf Bowls this morning and the lagoon looked weird.  nobody!  we’re seeing things we’ve never seen in our lives before.  creepy, but at the same time, peaceful.

oh, by the way, i wanted to say something to my Japanese friends.  PLEASE be very careful about this virus.  i heard people in Japan are still going out to eat, hanging out in crowded places, and even gathering to watch the cherry blossoms.  sooner or later, Japan will be like the rest of the world in quarantine.  Hawaii is doing it to prevent the virus to spread.  even though the numbers are low in Japan, the invisible virus is out there.  so stay home and try to stay away from others.  then when this whole thing is done, let’s make a big bond fire on the beach and hug each other until the sun comes up.  but until then, please say home as much as possible…

finally some good news for us Americans.  the President signed a bill that will pay each American $1,200.  we should be getting the checks soon so please use that money wisely.  this virus is far from over and things will get even tougher than it is.  now is the time to be smart.  and also be calm…

COVID: Is Hawaii Safe?

as of yesterday, if you come to Hawaii, you will be quarantined for 14 days in your hotel.  and if you’re a resident, you can’t leave your house for 14 days.  and if you do, that’s not cool.  and you could get arrested.

as for surfing, it’s ok to go to the beach to swim or surf.  i went to Bowls yesterday morning and nobody was sitting close to each other, and nobody was shaking hands.  waves were super good, and so was the vibe.  locals only and lots of respect…

as for work, half the island is unemployed.  people have to survive so it’s not a time to judge peoples actions.  everybody is in different financial situations so better to keep quiet.

as for my students, don’t travel anywhere.  stay home because you don’t want to be stuck in another country, and you don’t want to get sick abroad.

as for fear, please keep calm.  just like surfing, fear will make you make the wrong decisions.  it will slow your time for reacting.  so keep calm, think things trough, and go with the flow.

as of me, i’m taking this next month and turning it into a mini vacation.  it’s the first time since i started working at age 13 that i have a whole month break.  so yeah, i’m going to enjoy it.  fix my house, surf when i please, and continue exercising.  but most important, keeping healthy and keeping happy.

like everything else, this will pass.  and when it does, this will make us all stronger and wiser…

March 27, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

Spring time Hawaii…

Good morning 4:30am.

North shore waist high and fun.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sun, showers, and rainbows.

Stay home and have a wonderful day!