Free Ride…

Good morning 4:30am.

North shore chest high and clean.

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

Light winds so nice morning conditions.  Trade winds coming back.

Sun, clouds, and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

dawn patrol days continue…  Hiro-san looking more confident, more stoked, and more happy…

we’ve been surfing 2 rounds/day so Hiro-san’s been riding about 40 waves each day.  that’s how you get good really fast and it’s showing…

gosh, i love to shoot photos and get amazing results like this.

today was the calmest it’s been for a while.  the Roxy girls were at Rock Piles left walking the board, while we the boys were at Bowls Rights loving the long rides…

i explain to my students that you want to turn off the back foot.  then the board will fly and leave only sprays behind…

finally i got Hiro-san to smile on the wave!!!  a smile will loosen up your body, free your mind, and you’ll be loving life even more.  i can’t believe how good he’s gotten in just a few days…

Mai-chan paddled out yesterday and today and brought so much positive energy to the ocean.  always smiling, always happy, and always making us laugh…

she broke her leash yesterday and was going to go in.  i told her to stay out and surf without a leash.  she started to feel the freedom and now she doesn’t want to wear a leash anymore.  then right after this photo, she looked at me and fell.  her board shot at me and almost hit my face.  hey girl, “GO BUY A LEASH TOMORROW!!!!”

early morning surf is not only my favorite anymore, it’s been everybody’s favorite!  when somebody requests it, i’m more than glad to make it happen!  empty parking lot and you can be the first person in the ocean.  paddle out at dark and you will feel the power of Hawaii.  it’s unexplainable…every since the first time i took Seira-chan out at dark, she is hooked.  we finish at 8:30am and still have the whole day ahead…Seira-chan goes home and makes healthy and happy meals like this.  and more happy and healthy meals.  surf and eat?  can’t go wrong… i go shopping.  check out my new pants!   and my new helmet.  now i’m ready to go deep into the mountains with the boys!   just a couple more safety gear stuff and i would be able to fall off the mountain without a scratch.  but first, i’m going to eat my daily snack.  just a couple spoons of Rocky Road ice cream per day.  my absolute favorite!