want to thank Carter for taking these photos.  i’m still trying to figure out how to ride my bike properly.  keeping up with Tony Moniz in the mountains isn’t easy…i’m practicing wheelies!  i suck now, but i’ll get is perfected soon! Carter was laughing at me trying so hard.  haha…Nao-san went to surf in Shonan and guess who she saw?  a foiler? yeah, it was Matsu!  so stoked to see Matsu back in the water foiling.  nice board man!and so good to see Matsuo-san and team Rise and Shine too!wow, you guys are making winter in Shonan look very warm and fun!  thank you Nao-san for the photos.  hope to see you guys soon!

Surf Check:  Diamond Head trade wind swells continue…

Good morning 4:30am.

North shore 2-4′ and good.

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 25mph.

Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.

Going dawn patrol.

Have a wonderful day!

 what do i do on my free time?  i watch things grow… grow into food!  yummy…i babysit and watch kids grow.  feed them milk and watch them grow even faster.then i tell Keahi how beautiful his eyes are.   i take Mateus to lunch.  and he always makes me laugh.   i bring Mateus home, and he makes me freak out.  i was in my room and he was yelling “uncle, come check this out!”  i come out and he was doing a no hand head stand!  omg!  i yelled at him “you’re going to break your neck!”  he laughed and said “no i’m not.”  omg!  cruising around town checking out the waves in the evening.  this is my ultimate feeling of my FREEDOM!!!