i dropped off Seira-chan off at the beach at 6am in the morning.  the first thing she said was “it’s dark.”  haha.  i laughed and said “you won’t see anything when you paddle out.  just go out there and connect with the ocean and you will feel it.”  i told her to paddle out by herself and i’ll be back in 20 minutes when it gets lighter.  so she had the whole ocean to herself.  and after we surfed, she said “my favorite time is early morning now.”  haha.  i knew she would love it…when Seira-chan rides waves, i can see a lot of people watching her.  and that’s because she’s good.  it’s amazing how cool and calm this girl has become in the ocean…watching her catch sets at Bowls on her own, and riding it all the way to the rock wall.  that’s wave knowledge…ok, here is the best photo i got of Seira-chan’s first free dive.  and if you learn how to free dive, this will be your view.  i will never forget the first time i looked up and saw this when i was a kid.  it’s one of the most beautiful thing you will ever see.  and after seeing this about a million of times, it still amazes me…

Loving the surfing life in Hawaii…

Good morning 4:45am.

North shore head high and bumpy.

Ala Moana knee waist high and clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 25mph.

Sun, showers, and huge rainbows.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

Ayaka-san was flying back to Japan today so she requested to surf early.  and early is what i like!  it was pitch dark when we paddled out.

sitting in the ocean watching the city lights waiting for a wave?  that’s the coolest feeling…

and when the sun comes up when you’re riding a wave?  that’s an even cooler feeling…

and paddling back out after a long ride?  that’s the coolest feeling…

i’m very happy to see Ayaka-san surfing so much calmer and so much better.  we had such an amazing time…

good job girl!  have a safe flight back to Japan…

i went to Whole Foods to get some food.  i’m starting to eat healthier than ever.  this was my creation and it was all so good.

then i washed my food down with kombucha.  it was on sale at Whole Foods for only $2.50 so i got one.  healthy equals happy…