Kelia Moniz is the Wildcard for NOOSA.  Contest ON today!

Good morning 4:50am.

North shore chest high and clean.  New swell tonight.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

Trade winds lighter at 10mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

last night i was craving Hawaiian food.  so this was my Hawaiian food!  healthy, tasty, and happy…this morning was freaking beautiful again!  i was teaching Seira-chan about timing.  about timing the take off perfectly because that’s super important.  if you time the waves right, you can get into them effortlessly…then she figured it out pretty fast.  and when you time the take off perfectly, you will be able to be in better parts of the wave.  this girl is doing cutbacks too!  just flowing ever so gracefully…if i teach you how to surf, i will teach you the basics first.  then after you get that right, i will teach you about style.  Kelia Moniz said teaching surfing is easy, but teaching style is very difficult.  this is style, and this is not difficult if you listen!  haha…another perfect morning in Hawaii.  good job again Seira-chan.  it’s so cool to see you inspiring others.  people watch you because they want to get good like you.  and that’s inspiration…so i see this girl taking off the other day.  i knew she needed help with her style so i was yelling “put up your arms!!!”  she didn’t listen so this is what it looks like.  i hope someday she figures it out…

i do surf lessons in the most respectful way as possible.  i don’t take lots of people, i don’t push people in front of locals, and i don’t stand on the reef and kill it.  that said, there’s a guy that actually does all of that.  he takes out too many people, he doesn’t watch them, he pushes them in front of locals, he stands on the reef and kills it, he yells at people all the time, and he’s just an idiot.  that same idiot always tells people that he will call the police on them.  for what??? so the other day, i see police everywhere as i pull into the parking lot.  then they see me and approach me.  i already knew what it was about…so the police come, they ask me if i teach surfing, i say yes.  they ask me if i have a license.  i say yes.  they ask me if i have insurance.  i say yes.  then i say “i have everything i need and i’m probably the most legal guy down here.”  i show him my license, certifications, and everything.  they told me i’m good.  they told me somebody called them and said i’m illegal and not supposed to be teaching.  and guess what, i know exactly who that idiot is.  so yeah, one idiot called the police on me, sent 4 police cars, wasted their time and your tax payer money, for pretty much nothing.   they should have arrested that idiot for wasting their time that could have been spent fighting crime.  anyway, if you surf Bowls, you probably know who that idiot is.  just look for a guy yelling at people, pushing his customers in front of locals, and standing on the reef and killing it.  that poor guy must have a miserable life…