so happy to get a message from Asayama-san!  he’s still practicing his yoga, strumming his ukulele, tending to his garden, and surfing every Monday!  here he is in Ibaraki with Oomu-san!  omg, i miss you boys! surfing good waves and having good dinner in Ibaragi with Team Wedge.  this is Japanese surfing culture and i miss it so much.  when i retire, i’m going back to living the Japanese surfing life like this.  just wait a few more years boys and i’ll join you guys!   Nepal beer in Ibaraki?  so cool!  good to see you again Asayama-san!  good to see you and every body here in Hawaii misses you so much… it’s turning into winter now so you’ll see weird weather, cool clouds, and some leftover Summer swells like this.  i’ll take it all!  seen Keoni paddle out to Bowls and catch a couple good waves on his foil.  i was so happy to see him flying!  and a little jealous too because i had a shortboard.  haha…

 The Waiting Game…

Good morning 6:10am.

North shore 6-10′ and good.  Haleiwa Pro probably ON!

Ala Moana waist high and perfect.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

Light winds in the morning so clean.  Trade winds coming back later.

Sun, clouds, and heavy rain coming.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 super stoked to see Miwa-san out at Bowls today!  surfing super smooth and surfing super confident!  this is perfect surfing! then surfed with the boys.  one brand new surfer, 2 kids, and Papa Oshima-san.   Alex is from London and it’s his first time surfing.  and this is his very first wave of his life!  super stoked to see him get up and riding so fast… Renta-kun has High School paddling practice in the morning, then we’ve been surfing right after.  so this kids has been using a lot of muscles and muscles.  a very solid and strong kid… Renta-kun riding while Ojiro-kun dodging the waves.   last time i took Ojiro-kun surfing a few months ago, the waves were super big.  i thought he was a little traumatized because i haven’t seen him since.  today, he told me the reason he hasn’t been surfing with me is because he’s been busy.  haha.  so cute! we had a great time surfing and laughing with the boys.   Oshima-san was the first one to surf, now he’s inspiring his kids and friends.  so yeah, everybody wants to surf now because of this man!   Father and Son enjoying a ride.  so cool! but the ride of the day was 11 year old Ojiro-kun.  super calm, super confident, and super cute.  i love it! and Ojiro-kun also got the longest wave of the day too!  thank you boys for the awesome surf session.  can’t wait to do it again!