went surfing with Takahashi-san yesterday morning and was greeted by the coolest cloud formation.  it was like art! and Takahashi-san’s surfing was like art too!  it was her dream to turn side to side and more of a dream to cross step someday… and that someday was yesterday!  i was very impressed by her 20 or so waves she surfed perfectly!  happy rides for a happy girl… and the fish were happy too.  i’ve never seen this many fish in the lineup at Bowls before.  it was so beautiful!   and beautiful were these amazing rides too. thank you Takahashi-san for the amazing time with the waves and clouds.  it was paradise… then went surfing this late evening.  surfing with friends until the sunset… we paddled in at pitch dark.  it was so freaking beautiful!   then went for some good food with a couple beers.  ended up watching the Honolulu City Lights…  it was another beautiful day in paradise.

Friday Night:  Looking out upon the city lights…  Bring me back again…

Good morning 6am.

North shore 3-5′ and good.  Getting HUGE today and tomorrow…

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

Light wind in the morning so nice conditions.  Afternoon trade winds coming back.

Sun, clouds, rain, and beautiful.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 cool to see Takahashi-san back in Hokkaido.  it’s snowing and i’m hoping to go visit him in January for some powder snow!    had a great time this morning with Takahashi-san.  she is a good surfer and it was her first time surfing in Hawaii.  so yeah, she caught 20 longest rides of her life!  haha.  the waves were good and so was her surfing!   that guy on the left is in jail because he shot a 16 year old kid to death.  the kid on the right is the dead kids friend.  they are in court telling their side of the story.  the story is that kids friend went into the guys house to burglarize it.  the man chased them away and the kids came back a few hours later.  this time, the man got out his gun and shot at them.  one of the kids died.  it’s a huge controversy here in Hawaii now because the laws protect the thieves.  what ever the judge decides, it will change everything.  because if the man is found innocent, a lot more people will start shooting people that break into their houses.  and if man if found guilty, more and more kids will start burglarizing houses all over Hawaii.  so yeah, when this trial is over, things are going to get crazy here in Hawaii.  stay tuned…