November 13, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Always searching for the perfect wave…

Good morning 5:20am.

North shore waist high.  No Haleiwa Pro today.

Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.

Diamond Head chest to shoulder high and clean.

Light winds so nice morning conditions.  Afternoon onshore.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

Freedom Diamond Head

 had lots of laughs and great conversations last night at Futago Yakiniku.  getting together, meeting new people, and eating good food.  happy to hear that all these guys have a great life… woke up early and headed to Diamond Head.  had 2 things in my mind… one was to foil into the sunrise, and one was to test out my old gopro i found in my closet.  seems to be working fine.  both gopro and foil board… reflections:  sometimes you have to take a look at yourself and reflect on life.  then you can find a way to make it even better.  i do that all the time… as of right now, i’m stuck between foiling and surfing.  starting to love each 50/50.  sometimes i feel like staying connected to the ocean, and sometimes i feel like staying connected to the air.  i’m so lucky to be able to choose what feeling i want on any given day… Mike Woo’s creation in Bali.  looking super good!   last, i really love babies.  they are so pure, so innocent, and so cute.  just enjoying this lovely moment with Karen-chan…

SUP into Sunrise…

 fresh fish, rice, and miso soup.  tonight’s dream dinner!

 Renta-kun is getting bigger and stronger each week.  it’s kind of cool watching him grow into a man living the Hawaiian lifestyle.

 and feeling comfortable and confident is only going to better his life here.

 i’m super proud of you Renta-kun!  good surfing and good vibe…

 want to congratulate Masao-san for competing in the All Japan SUP contest in Chiba.  such a great experience and i’m so proud of you!!!

 keep on SUP’ing, and keep on smiling.  such a beautiful photo!  makes me want to go to Japan soon!!!