Lucky November swell at Bowls…

Good morning 5:45am.

North shore 3-5′ and perfect.

Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.

Diamond Head overhead and perfect.

No wind so nice morning conditions.  Afternoon onshore.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 wow, i thought this unusual South swell was going down but i was wrong.  it was actually bigger today!  Ala Moana Bowls was going off!

 since Haruka-san is a goofy footer and can surf good, i took her to the best spot which was Bowls.  and we scored!

 Haruka-san’s only been surfing for 4 years and wants to get better.   so before we paddled out,  i gave her a few tips about arms, and eyes.  then after a couple of waves, she figured it out!

 this is where you want your arms, and this is where you want your eyes.  if you surf like this, the sky is the limit…

 Haruka-san also wanted to learn how to do an off the lip and now she can do it over and over.  this is perfect surfing!  if you surf like this, you will win the next contest you enter.  try it!

 a very energetic girl who is also a yoga teacher.  a bright surfing and yogi future ahead!  good job girl!  and thank you Miki-san from Patagonia for sending me this cool surfer my way…

 today was the first time i ate at Sunny Days and not my last.  the loco moco was amazing!!!

 had a wonderful sunny lunch with Haruka-san, Papa Norio-san, and Mama Makiko-san.  thank you guys for the wonderful morning.  so nice to meet you!

 want to thank Uncle Kyle for taking these photos of our dive trip.  the water was so blue!!!  and the boys were loving it!!! Joshua and Seth make a good team.  they watch out for each other, but at the same time, they compete against each other.  so they push each other to their limits in anything they do.  but when it comes to free diving, they work together just like this…  as for me, i still swim away from them when i’m diving because when they are next to me, they scare all the fish away!  haha… and once i can get away from the boys, i can lay on the bottom of the ocean in peace, wait patiently for something to swim my way, and when it’s time for the kill shot, i take it.  if the boys were around me, there’s no way i would have speared this fish because they would have scared it away.  haha…  so stoked to get this big ishidai!   Takahashi-san was driving the boat all morning, and also fishing too.  he caught this perfect size nabeta.  this is one of the best eating fish in Hawaii.  good job!  and thank you again Uncle Kyle for the photos of our precious memories…