The lovely underwater world…

Good morning 5:30am.

North shore chest high and coming up.  Overhead by this afternoon.

Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.

Diamond Head overhead and good.

Light trade winds at 5mph becoming onshore this afternoon.

Sunny and very warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 left really early this morning to go experiment with surfboards.   Carter and I combined must have ordered 20 boards just in 2019.  we are experimenting and learning so much about surfboards… these are 2 of Micah’s twin fins.  Akila Aipa has been making really good twin fins that most top professional surfers in the world are riding right now.  so yes, i am very interested.  went to a spot where nobody was out so we could ride empty waves and try new boards. passed by Bowls on the way back and must have counted a hundred surfers scattered out throughout Rock Piles.   since Micah let me borrow his board, i dropped it off to him in the parking lot and gave him a ride back out to the lineup.  that’s the least i could have done for my little Nephew.   then took a spin down and hung out in Waikiki during sunset time.  such a beautiful green flash… then looked at Diamond Head right before dark.  still some overhead sets and looking super good.  tomorrow will have waves again for sure.  our Summer swells aren’t done yet.  yeah! Naoka took this photo of a typical day in Molokai.  once you come here, you won’t want to leave… Toda-san is back to catching sakura ebi.  i’m sure while he’s fishing, he’s dreaming about foiling.  haha…

 Matsu was telling me about his barrel at E-Bay.  i told him he’s lucky he didn’t get hurt because that place is dangerous going backside.  he got back to Japan and found out he broke his back bone.  omg! but i think the ding in his brand new foil board hurts even more.  haha.  hope you and your board get better soon Matsu! Takahashi-san cutting the perfect fillets… when ever somebody asks me again if there are sharks in town, i’ll just send them this photo and say “yes.”  i think it’s pretty funny because nobody use to believe me before.  now they do… so good to see this little old school store still open after all these years.   you won’t find a cheaper bottle of Kombucha anywhere else on this island.  it’s only $2.99 here.   if you ever wonder why the shower area at Bowls is always clean, this is why.   Les is a very good man who gives back to the island.  i always tell him “i wish you can come to my house and clean my yard too.”  haha..