Morning light and Blue Crush…

Good morning 5:45am.

North shore chest high and good.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

 Boot Camp Day 3 for Sasaki-san.  can’t beat getting in a session before you flight back to Japan!  another smart man! everybody likes to go frontside.  so i make everybody go backside.  the reason is the better you get backside, the better you will get frontside.   and when you can go both ways, that’s when surfing gets double the fun!  look at Sasaki-san go! good ride, good life… this was our last wave this morning.  Sasaki-san is a reborn surfer that plans to surf every weekend in Japan.  thank you Hikaru-san for sending this wonderful man my way!  and now, i will send him to Matsuo-san’s way in Chigasaki.  welcome to our beautiful world!   dropped Sasaki-san off so he can make his flight, then i went back to Bowls to make my flight!  haha.  it was foilers paradise!   seen Ryan, Viki, and Doggie hanging 40!  this is so cool! then they fell off so i went to grab Doggie.  and yes, i was so scared because i’m still traumatized by dogs since i got bitten on the lip when i was 6 years old.  scary… Toda-san enjoying the camping life and amazing sunset.  we were texting last night planning our next foil trip.  it’s going to be a good one!

 this place has been here for 75 years and still very popular.  just look at the cash register!  classic!!!   it’s like a hole in a wall place that makes the best shumai and manapua.  located in one of the most dangerous areas in Chinatown but worth the risk.  just leave your valuables at home.  haha… Shimamura-san came to Hawaii for just 2 days to improve on his surfing.  the first day we worked hard on perfecting take off, style, and calmness.  the second day, everything came together perfectly and i was super impressed with his progress… when you ride a wave, you have to go with the flow.  don’t fight it, just let it take you where it wants to.  then at the end, you will freak out on how far you rode it.  if you surf it perfectly like this, you will average 30 second rides.  something you won’t find anywhere else… and when you can stay calm, your confidence will build.  and when your confidence builds, surfing becomes more fun than ever.   thank you Shimamura-san for the high intensity Boot Camp.  i couldn’t be a happier Sargent!  haha.  keep practicing and see you again soon Soldier!   i usually arrive in Waikiki at sunrise, and leave at sunset.  it’s been long days, but when i’m driving home watching the sky turn orange, i can tell you that each and every day, i’m 100% satisfied with everything.  very thankful and very happy to be a 4th generation Japanese/American living my dream… wanted to say hello to the Rise and Shine boys in Chigasaki!  hope to see you guys soon!    so happy to see Azumi-san with his new foil setup.  it will take some time to start flying, but once he does, this happy man will be even happier.  welcome to the Foil Club Azumi-san!  hope to fly with you in Ishinomaki someday soon!