October 24, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

 Sharing is Caring…

Good morning 5:45am.

North shore waist high.

Ala Moana knee high.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

No wind so clean morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

$1M Parking View

 i’ve been teaching Tomami-san how to surf for a few years.  since all her basics are perfect, it was time to teach her how to turn both ways.  and on her very first wave, she turned to the right and had the wave of her life! and always happy to see the stoke on the paddle back out. then she started going left, then right, then both ways on the same wave.  it was almost too easy for her.  good job Tomami-san.  Boot Camp Day 2 tomorrow early morning.  see you! i’d have to say that this is a surfers Million Dollar View.  and when you look forward, you can soak in this place we call “paradise…” after Tomami-san and i surfed, i went to grab my foil and started flying again.  so many guys were complaining that the waves have been so small these past few days.  i tell them, “it’s freaking perfect for me!”  they don’t look too happy after i say that.  haha… in Hong Kong, they just sold this parking space for $1 million!  unbelievable…

Dream Come True: All Japan Champion!

 my brother caught fish on Mayuki, then he cooked me a couple and it was excellent!  fresh catch from the sea! glad you finally got wet Azumi-san!  the only advise i have for you is to keep on practicing and never give up!   i’ve been trying to do turns without any wave.  and at the same time, trying to get the foil out of the water without losing control.  i just named it a “flat foil slide!”  so stoked! ok, does Boot Camp work?  well, take Seira-chan for example.  this girl went from beginner to advanced in just 2 trips to Hawaii.  i watched her day after day as she transformed into a very confident and happy surfer.  she entered that contest this past Summer at Queen’s and the older ladies took all her waves.  after that, i knew she learned and the next contest she entered won’t be the same.  my words for her was always to connect, be calm, and enjoy…   so last week, Seira-chan goes to Chiba to surf the All Japan Student Championship.  that’s one of the biggest amateur contests in Japan!  and guess what?  she freaking WINS!!!  OMG!  not only did she win the Women’s Division, she won the trophy for best ride too!  so now we have another Champion!  hey Seira-chan, i’m so proud of you!  i knew you can do  it.  all the hard work in Boot Camp was worth it.  what’s next?  want to try to win a Pro Contest next year?  why not right?  haha…