Bananas and Muffins and Style…

 so happy to see the Shima Bananas surfing every morning and every evening.   Seira-chan went to see them perform and now she gets to see them surf.  i’ve been surfing with these legends for 20 years and i’m sure they will be surfing forever…went surfing with Lissa again today.  better waves, better rides, and better style…  it’s so cool how everybody gets so addicted to surfing and how everybody wants to get better.  way better… Hian once again the strongest paddler in the whole ocean.  i saw him paddle faster than a wave once, so i had to tell him to slow down.  haha.. gosh, i just love the view.  and i’m sure Hian is loving it too! and Lissa loving the long paddle back out smiling the whole way… Seira-chan’s been surfing by herself.  i’m watching her from far away, but everything she does is spot on perfect.  catching plenty of waves, and surfing it very well… a lot of people were watching her surf, and that means it’s because she’s surfing good… another day, another experience for this young woman… this girl can surf, this girl can cook, this girl can bake, and this girl can speak English.  and she’s only 20 years old!  thank you for the delicious muffins Seira-chan!  it was so good! Nanami-san came for Boot Camp from today, so i tried something different.  i had Seira-chan teach her.  anything to keep this girl calm, i’m trying.  haha…

Summer 2019: Hundreds of Waves, Thousands of Smiles…

 back to yesterday’s Boot Camp sessions.  first in the morning was Matsumoto-san and Kana-chan.  it’s unbelievable how good at surfing you can get in just one day!  just look forward like this!!! Kana-chan is very young and energetic.  riding the longest waves till the end… and smiling all the way back out… i took Matsumoto-san to the outside to catch sets.  i think it was the biggest waves of his life.  so happy!   then an afternoon session with the coolest group from Singapore… Hian only surfed a couple times but he knew what he was doing.  and he even knew how to work the camera.    Laura surfed many times before so it was kind of easy for her.  it’s incredible to see what a single wave in Hawaii can make a person feel like.  this is surfing, and this is what i love to see… Lissa was very poised and confident.  you could see it right away in her surfing.  and this girl knows how to enjoy the moment…  you can’t surf in Singapore so it must be cool to be able to come to Hawaii and surf in paradise…if i’m riding on the side of you, i’m yelling “SMILE!!”  because if you smile, you will enjoy the ride 2x more.  just like this… keep smiling and keep surfing.  see you guys this morning for more fun in the sun…

September 3, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

From Singapore to Hawaii:  Awesome surf session guys!!!

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana waist high with chest high sets.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!