KirbyHeli

 this morning i went surfing with Fujuki-san and he’s super interested in foiling.  so Toda-san came because he’s the most addicted foiler in Hawaii right now.  haha. and since Toda-san is foiling all the time, i’m doing my best to fly my foil drone.  got a super nice photo of Fujuki-san!  look how beautiful everything is! and since Takami-san hasn’t gotten a drone shot in a while, i had to take one for her.  haha.  Toda-san use to stand on the beach and take drone photos of us.  now he’s foiling, foiling, and foiling… and i haven’t seen anyone get this good so quickly.  he must have a good teacher?  haha… so happy to surf with Fujiki-san every year for the past decade.  such a nice and happy guy that loves to surf.  we had such a fun session this morning at Bowls.  i think we caught every single wave that came in again.   such a beautiful world we live in… next week, we’re taking Fujuki-san foiling!  get ready for the a life changer!!! then took Nanami-san and Seira-chan surfing this afternoon.  sharing waves and sharing memories…  it’s so nice to come home and see the cutest kid in the world at my house.  and since Michi-san gave me presents for Mateus, i thought it would be the perfect time!   so yeah, it was close your eyes time! look how happy this kid is!   Mateus loves anything to do with Japan…thank you Aunty Michi-san!

Blackface Surfers?

 it’s cool what you can learn from someone.  Seira-chan can learn from Nanami-san how to be super excited!  and Nanami-san can learn from Seira-chan how to be super calm!  a perfect balance…  haha… this is one amazing woman.  a Super Mom that knows how to enjoy life… and enjoying life is coming to Hawaii and surfing perfect waves like this!   Seira-chan enjoying life every single day… it took a few days of Boot Camp to perfect the popup.  and now, it is perfect.   it took a few days of Boot Camp to perfect the arms.  and now, it is perfect. and it’s going to take a couple more days of Boot Camp to perfect the cross step.  and trust me, it will be perfect… and Nanami-san’s surfing will be perfect too.  we’re almost there! yes, surfing together is fun.  everybody pushing each other to succeed.  thank you girls for the wonderful session…the other day, i heard somebody at Bowls complained to the boys about dressing like Blackface.  Blackface is when somebody paints their face black to pretend to be an African American.  i wish i was there to tell the guy that these guys aren’t painted black, they are just Okinawan’s with a beautiful tan!  that’s their real color!  and i love these guys like my brothers and there is no other group of surfers that love their lives as much as they do…

September 4, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

What is stoke?  This is stoke!!!

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana chest waist to chest high sets and clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!