so happy to surf with Yamada-san again!  super calm and cool man that’s been surfing since he was 20 years old.  now he’s 65 years old and inspiring us all.  just another example of enjoying life to the fullest… Yamada-san never really liked to go backside until today.  super smooth surfing and using the rail so good. i’d say he caught about 25 waves this morning.  so much energy and so much stoke! then went to my new secret spot for the best sandwich you can ever imagine.  thank you Yamada-san for inspiring all us surfers that want to surf their whole life too… then went down to Hawaiian Airlines to pick up my precious cargo…yeah!  my new foil has arrived!!!  then back out for an afternoon surf with Nanami-san.  to be honest, i didn’t think she would make it out because the waves were big!  but after 30 minutes of dodging about 50 waves, she finally made it out… her son Gavin’s been living the Hawaiian dream life and going to college here.  i remember when i was doing that too.   Gavin told me “I’m very impressed” about Seira-chan.  so am i… thank you Nanami-san for the gifts.  honey strawberry for breakfast.and this cool Vail custom hat for the sun.  see you boys and girls tomorrow!  it’s going to be bigger and better!

spent another afternoon with the girls.  just another example of connecting people together.  a dream come true for me…

Seira-chan is surfing so good.  if the contest she surfed in was this week, she would win for sure…

if you know how to enjoy the ocean with any type of surfboard you ride, you are connected with the ocean.  simple…

Nanami-san surfed at her best.  i was so impressed on how relaxed she was from the first wave till the last.

and speeding down waves like this…

and even doing the Kelia Moniz cross step!

Nanami-san told me she is traumatized from the time i took her out to Bowls when it was 10′.  i would be too.  haha.  but she doesn’t realize how strong it made her!

watching these girls surfing together and enjoying paradise is amazing.  like i said, this is like a dream for me…

Nanami-san is watching Seira-chan all the time.  maybe that’s why she calmed down?  i was kind of hoping for that to happen.

by the time Seira-chan leaves Hawaii, she will be a master short boarder and long boarder.  i love watching her progress…

omg, the U.S Coast Guard again?

these guys are just doing their job by checking every boat that goes in and out.  i’m super legal so i there’s nothing to worry about…

thank you Nao-san for the wonderful time in Hawaii.  hope you’re having a great time in California!

as of last month, it’s illegal to operate a short term rental for less than 30 days stay.  so passing by the Waikiki Banyan, i wasn’t surprised that people are selling their condos.  what a shocker…

One of the luckiest Japanese girls in the world…

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana waist to chest high and clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.  And huge Rainbows.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!