look to what Seira-chan woke up to!  lucky girl…  Nanami-san is a challenger.  she eats and sleeps surfing.  and if you ever seen her excitement in the water, it will make you excited too.  haha.  Gavin’s been living in Hawaii so he’s already enjoying the moment.  this was probably the best wave of his life!   and after the best wave of your life, you’re a very happy man!  the thing i like about Seira-chan is when i say go, she goes!  so when i seen this wave coming in from the outside, i knew it would probably be the best wave of her life.  she turned, went, and surfed it as good as you can…she did a turn, then another turn, than i saw the last section so i yelled “HIT IT!!!”   and she hit the lip!!!  that was 3 turns on a perfect head high left.  if i were a judge, i’d give her a 9.5!    Seira-chan is very calm and very shy.  but after a wave like that, calm and shy won’t hold in your emotions.  it’s moments like this that make all the training worth it.  i was so happy for her… i have so many friends in this world and if i can connect them, this world will be a better place.  good job Gavin, Seira-chan, and Nanami-san!   i went to eat dinner with the Okinawa boys.  i already know how these parties turn out so i drove my car on purpose.  if i drive, i drink responsibility.  if i don’t drive, i don’t remember how i get home.  same like Okinawa style.  haha… i think there were more beers on the table than food.  haha.  i had a wonderful time with you guys.  hope to see you bananas in Okinawa!  glad you guys got home safely.  the Shima Bananas legacy continues…

Thursday afternoon shower…

Good morning 5:30am.

New South Swell!!!  Yeah!!!

Ala Moana head high and good.  Some overhead sets.  Little morning sickness.

Diamond Head 4′ high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 so happy to surf with Yamada-san again!  super calm and cool man that’s been surfing since he was 20 years old.  now he’s 65 years old and inspiring us all.  just another example of enjoying life to the fullest… Yamada-san never really liked to go backside until today.  super smooth surfing and using the rail so good. i’d say he caught about 25 waves this morning.  so much energy and so much stoke! then went to my new secret spot for the best sandwich you can ever imagine.  thank you Yamada-san for inspiring all us surfers that want to surf their whole life too… then went down to Hawaiian Airlines to pick up my precious cargo…yeah!  my new foil has arrived!!!  then back out for an afternoon surf with Nanami-san.  to be honest, i didn’t think she would make it out because the waves were big!  but after 30 minutes of dodging about 50 waves, she finally made it out… her son Gavin’s been living the Hawaiian dream life and going to college here.  i remember when i was doing that too.   Gavin told me “I’m very impressed” about Seira-chan.  so am i… thank you Nanami-san for the gifts.  honey strawberry for breakfast.and this cool Vail custom hat for the sun.  see you boys and girls tomorrow!  it’s going to be bigger and better!