back to yesterday’s fun in the sun!  Yabuki-san wanted to challenge the big waves again and this time, he did it with no fear.   big sets and long rides from Bowls rights… a very happy man!   i already got 5 compliments on my new old board.  haha.  thank you Jeannie for bringing it back to life!   by the way, to all my students, look at my eyes and where i’m looking!  i never look down, always looking forward.  you must look where i want to go.  got it? took Seira-chan to the main peak at Bowls yesterday.  this girl can go right or left and she’s surfing so smooth… the perfect bottom turn.  once you can master this, everything else will follow… i’m pretty sure Seira-chan caught the best left hander of her life yesterday.  long, steep, and beautiful… milk tea the first day, and poke bowl the second.  this girl knows the way… welcome Oshima-san to Hawaii and look at him go on his brand new board!  it was practically flying!!! the waves have been good all day long!  loving the ride… yes, i still think i’m dreaming because the waves and weather have been absolutely perfect every single day…lots of waves, and lots of laughs to finish up another day.  everybody have fun, and everybody go home happy!  Surf your dream…

The perfect bottom turn by Seira-chan…

Good morning 5:20am.

Ala Moana chest high sets and clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing 3 rounds again.

Have a wonderful day!

Kaimuki has absolutely the best places to eat, drink, and hang out.  it’s a very old town and i hope it stays that way…  Keep it Kaimuki!

i tried a new cafe down my street and the matcha chai tea was the best!

Yabuki-san Boot Camp Day 2.  so good!

Seira-chan Boot Camp Day 30 something.   so good!

Oshima-san Boot Camp Day 100 or something.  so good!

i surfed all day again.  amazing surfing and amazing people.  more photos tomorrow.  changing the subject….  i got asked a lot about the surfer fight yesterday so i want to get into it.  one guy drops in on another guy, they yell at each other and fight in the water.  i mean punching each other in the face. then they come into the parking lot for Round 2.  it was 2 locals going up and up.  nobody was taking photos or recording it, nobody called the police, and nobody stopping it.  it was just 2 local surfers fighting old school style.  kicking, punching, and doing what ever it took to win.  then after it was done, they shook hands and left.  cool!

last night i was thinking about it all night because i was really happy to see that fight.  that’s how we use to fight back in the old days.  it was so pure, and so necessary.  if 2 men have differences, they fight, let it out, and shake hands after.   but now days, everybody posts it on social media, everybody calls the police, and everybody sues.  that’s pretty sad.  and that’s why you have so many assholes in the water.  some guy will actually threaten you and when you try to defend yourself and punch them, they say they will call the police?  what???  really???  anyway, i’m still thinking about yesterday because it was the coolest thing i’ve seen in a long time.  i call it “Gladiator!”    and i wish it was still like that….