ok, i try to take underwater photos like this to see if i’m teaching this right.  when a big wave comes, throw your board to the side before your dive!!!  if you just jump off your board, it will be close to you and who knows what the ocean will do.  in this case, the fins barely missing an ass.  if you throw it behind like you’re supposed to do, this will never ever happen.  the dive in perfect, but the surfboard isn’t…  got it?  i pass by Leonard’s everyday and the line is getting longer and longer.  one and a half hour wait to buy a $1 malasada?  most of these tourists don’t know that there is a much better malasada just up the street… the Hawaiian movement is gaining momentum world wide.  and it ain’t going to stop anytime soon… i opened my fortune cookie and it read “You will step on the soil of many countries.”  really?  wow, i’m looking forward to traveling again!!!   and i can’t wait to see the pure and innocent faces in the world like this.  this was in the Maldives where people are very happy.  that was 15 years ago so i’m sure these girls are on their iPhones by now?  but i surely hope not…2020 is the Tokyo Olympics and i’m just wondering how people are going to compete in the heat?  i couldn’t even walk 2 minutes without feeling like i was going to faint.  i haven’t felt that kind of heat anywhere else in the world.  i would never carry an old ladies umbrella but without it, i’d be dead…

Bowls yesterday evening:  Girls just wanna have fun…

Good morning 5:20am.

Ala Moana chest high and morning sickness.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  Arai-san on day 2 Boot Camp.  after the other big day, today was super easy for him.  yes, it was bigger but when you’re calm, you will surf good no matter what.

Arai-san hasn’t surfed waves this big before.  big and barreling!   how cool is this photo?

then coming out and doing an off the lip!  one of my friends was paddling out and said to me “wow, you should have seen how happy he was at the end of that wave.”  haha.

Round 2:  then Hattori-san tested out the short board.  it’s been a while so it was pretty exciting.

a few good waves, and a few hundred duck dives.  the waves wouldn’t stop pumping!

then went to pick up Seira-chan.  yeah, she’s back!  first stop, boba milk tea!  haha.

welcome back girl!  i’m super excited to surf with you for the next 45 days.  you’re going to be at a professional level by the end of this Boot Camp!

Round 3:  then surfed with Tokuda-san this evening.  super cool guy that loves the ride!

Tokuda-san asked me “how many surfer friends do you have?”  i told him “about a thousand.  why? how many do you have?”  he said “four.”   i told him “well, now, you have five!”

Tokuda-san was a little scared of big waves.  so i took him to big waves because this is how you overcome your fear.  i taught him how to dive under sets and this is absolutely perfect!  now he’s not scared anymore.  simply done…

Seira-chan was out ripping.  last time she came to Hawaii, it was cold, raining, and flat the whole time.  this time will be much different.  perfect weather and big swells on the horizon…

last time Seira-chan came to Hawaii, she met Kelia on her very first day.  this time, same thing!  i couldn’t believe how lucky this girl is!  Kelia was so happy to see her too!  and Seira-chan also got to see a crazy fist fight in the parking lot too!  so lucky!

anyway, i surfed 3 rounds totaling 6 hours.  still 8:30pm and didn’t eat dinner.  so i’m tired, and very grouchy.   better stay away from me.  haha.  goodnight.