i’ve been clumsy recently kicking everything in my way.  another day, another cut…   there is a reason why Mateus has full gear when riding dirt bike.  it’s to protect his little body… this kid is getting good.  but with getting good, there are risks… i saw him fall face first on the concrete!  if he didn’t have a helmet, i don’t even want to think what could have happened… so he got up and went to the grass.  then rode and rode… handsome, cute, and super funny?  when this kid gets older, all the girls are going to love him.  haha… foiling fever is here.  i see more and more people doing it.  and i see more and more people getting hurt doing it.  i tell them, “no pain, no gain…” so stoked to see Toda-san and Matsu hanging out with Azumi-san in Ishinomaki.  i really wish i were there… and since Toda-san is hooked on foiling, he won’t leave home without it… when i saw this photo of Toda-san taking Matsu foiling for the first time, i thought to myself “omg, this could be dangerous!” look at Matsu flying!!!!  haha!!!!   so now Matsu is frustrated and wants to learn.  that’s why he texted me and said “i have to get my own foil!”  haha…as for Toda-san, he’s getting better and better by the day.  i’m so stoked for him because i know how happy he must be.  the happiness is indescribable…

Hello to my “We Are One” friends in Shirahama, Ishinomaki!  Miss you guys so much…

Good morning 5:45am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and good.

Light trade winds at 10mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing all day!

See you in the water…

 it’s a dream to wake up to this.  Miho-san wanted so surf earlier then usual and i’m always for that.  this is the reason!   the morning beauty… usually, the earlier, the better.  nice smooth rides all morning. cross stepping and loving life… smiling and loving life… and as a photographer, the morning lighting is absolutely the best!  you can never take a beautiful photo like this mid-day… it’s been a while since i short boarded so pretty stoked to feel my new magic board!   i can’t believe how good Miho-san got in just 2 days.  she’s charging big sets and never ever falls. thank you Miho-san for the wonderful days of surfing.  it was nice to surf with you and your beautiful family.  hope to see you guys again… then went straight to Mateus’s birthday party!  this is Hawaiian style kids party… i wish i was a kid again!Happy Birthday Mateus!  Unko loves you very much.  wishing you another year of happiness and dreams come true…