Colorful Happy Days…

i got to upload the photos taken by professional photographer Paul Teruya of the kids.  check out Rio-kun on the left, and Yuki-kun on the right splitting peaks the day before yesterday.

kids are very fast learners.  every time i give a little advice, it goes a very long way.  this is how you do a very good bottom turn.  good job Yuki-kun!

and with a good bottom turn, everything is easy after that.  another golden moment captured by Paul.

Rio-kun is another good listener.  and that’s why this kid is getting super good super fast.

gosh, Paul’s photos are amazing.  i always loved the angles he gets and it turns an already beautiful wave into a magical one like this…

this morning was Tanaka-san’s turn.  we’ve been surfing every year but today was the turning point.  she combined her yoga skills to her surfing and it went perfectly together.

good job Tanaka-san!

if you do yoga, then you can definitely surf.  and since i do yoga too, it’s way easier for me to teach surfing.  Namaste…

amazing surfing today Tanaka-san!  thank you again and again for translating my blogs for me.  so stoked!

then went with the lovely Tanaka-san family for an Acai Bowl.  hope you guys enjoy your Big Island trip tomorrow!  and hope to see you guys again soon…

then i went back to the ocean today with the Koutaki-san kids!  i taught them how to enjoy the ocean even more than they did yesterday.  now the kids know why i call the ocean “My Disneyland.”  you won’t find another ride more exciting than this.  i was riding on the side just laughing and loving the moment…

then ended up the day with the most beautiful sunset we’ve had in a while.  it was like a painting, or even better.  dam, i’m so happy!

Cross Step into the Worlds Biggest Burger!

 back to yesterday’s action.  now i know why these kids love the ocean and surf so much.  it’s because their mom is showing them how to do it!   i had a 30 second discussion with Miho-san on how to walk a longboard.  then the next wave came, i rode along the side, and watched how she would react to just a simple 30 second tip.  anyway, here’s the take off. then she turned, and did the most beautiful cross step!  then another one, and another one!  i was riding along in awe… then she not only walked up to the nose, she walked back too!  omg!  this is called perfect style for walking a longboard everyone.  and for her to figure it out in under a minute, that’s amazing!   so yeah, in 30 seconds, your life could change.  but that’s only if you listen.  haha… thanks for listening Miho-san.  looking forward to surfing with you again tomorrow.  waves will be good once again! Eitaro-kun wanted to eat hamburger so i knew the perfect place!   Papa Koutaki-san ordered the Teddy’s Biggest Burger!  it’s 1 pound of beef!  i couldn’t believe he finished it!   even though you’re super full, a nice cold shave ice from Waiola will always fit in your stomach.  this is what you call “a happy ending…”   i knew once Toda-san figured out how to keep the foil up, he was going to progress faster than anyone, including me.  he’s super talented and can do anything if he tries.  i just hope he doesn’t get better than me before this summer ends!  haha.  i better go practice! now Toda-san, Takami-san, and Matsu are driving up to Tohoku.  i come to tears knowing my that my friends still care and still support everyone in Tohoku after all these years.  thank you guys for making me feel so good that you guys are up there.  please tell everyone i miss them so much and hope to see them soon.  We Are One!

August 9, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Welcome to my Disneyland kid.  You won’t find a better ride than this…

Good morning 5:40am.

Ala Moana chest high and clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and clean.

No wind so nice morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!