August 9, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Welcome to my Disneyland kid.  You won’t find a better ride than this…

Good morning 5:40am.

Ala Moana chest high and clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and clean.

No wind so nice morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

Go-Disneyland: Kids Tandem Day!

i had an awesome day with the Koutaki-san family.   i haven’t seen them in 2 years so happy to see the kids growing up with beautiful smiles!

first i took 8 year old Eitaro-kun for a little bit of tandem.  Mama Miho-san riding behind us enjoying the ride.

this kid is full of energy.  all he was asking me was to catch a bigger and bigger wave.  he loved the thrill…

then it was 10 year old Yuko-chan’s turn.  we had a blast riding some long ones.

as we were finishing up this ride, i thought it was time for the kids to surf on their own.

Eitaro-kun jumped right up and rode his first wave in Hawaii by himself so perfectly!  it was so cute!!!

big smile from a little kid.  so happy!

then Yuko-chan had her chance and this was her first wave.  perfect surfing and perfect smile.

these kids don’t know my camera is rolling so these smiles are for real.  very pure, and very pleasant…

then we were watching Mama Miho-san riding waves from the outside.  such a good surfer!

very calm, and very relaxed.  i think that’s why her kids are calm and relaxed too…

then i had an idea???  instead of me always riding with the kids, i’ll let the kids surf together!  they said “yeah, we want to!”

this was their very first wave together.  i couldn’t believe how far they rode it without falling off?  tandem surfing is very hard to do but these kids made it look so easy.  and they made it look so fun too!

i had a great time with you kids.  get ready for more fun in the sun tomorrow.  we’re going back to my Disneyland!  yeah!!!

Real People and Fake News…

 Mai-chan has become exactly what i thought she would be come after the day i met her 5 years ago.   which is very curious, and extremely spontaneous!   she shares with me her journeys and i enjoy watching her grow.  this is how you learn about nature, world, and life… yes, you don’t have to go far to find a hidden paradise like this.  keep on exploring this beautiful world Mai-chan!   as for me, i’m almost done exploring because i’ve been doing it for too long.  sometimes i love driving 10 minutes down my street to this…  and in Hawaii, you’re guaranteed paradise 365 days a year… can somebody please help me fix this pin hole?  i’ve never worked with carbon fiber before.  my board is alive and breathing!  where ever i go in the world, i can see my little niece Kelia Moniz.  and when i see her, it makes me a very happy Unko…

and when i get to hang out with her in exotic places like Uluwatu, i’m even happier…

 WOW!  my old board just became a new board!  thank you Jeannie Chesser for the art!  i’ll be sending you more old magic boards so you can make them look like new magic boards like this!   i’m so happy! in Japan, i even love eating hotel breakfast food!  the news just showed a poll about the TMT controversy.   they said the majority people in Hawaii are supporting for the telescope being built on Mauna Kea.   i think it’s totally fake!  who did they poll?   the rich people?  people from other countries that live here?  there is no way this is accurate.  i’m about to give up on even watching our local news anymore…if you’ve been in Hawaii recently, you probably seen these flags everywhere.  this means “NO” to the TMT project.  and once again, either side you’re on, you should go to the Mauna and experience what i just did.  then when you come down from the Mauna, i would respect 100% either way you support.  Tony told me that Joshua and Seth told him it was a “life changing experience…”