Glassy days and perfect waves…  Summer 2019!

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana waist with chest high sets.  Clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.

No wind so clean conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

i walked down my wet stairs this morning and slipped!  my toe went right into the railing.  ouch!

after loading up the boards, i felt something wet.  ouch!

these Local Slippers cost $3 and when they get overused like this, it will slip when it’s wet.  i better get new ones…

the pain went away right when i turned into this rainbow.

the boys had Uncle Paul Teruya come and shoot them this morning.  Paul showed me some photos and they are so beautiful!  BUT, i don’t have a DVD drive???  omg!

i had my camera so managed to get a couple photos.  here is Yuki-kun at Bowls Right!

these kids were ripping!

Rio-kun riding on Bowls Left!  there was nobody out so we scored perfect Bowls!

when you’re lucky to surf one of the most packed spots in the world like Bowls with nobody out, you’re freaking lucky!

the boys caught 25 waves each.  so including my 5, we rode 55 waves!   good job boys!

and when i got out of the ocean, my cut was looking pretty good!  i was explaining to the kids how the ocean heals…  and this is proof!

the Aida-san family is such a wonderful family!   we’ve been surfing for years and years and happy to see the boys so calm and cool in the ocean.

and some Vietnam for lunch.  thanks guys!

three days in a row, three fires intentionally set at hotels in Waikiki.  first was the Alohilani Resort, then the Waikiki Beachcomber, then the Hilton Grand Waikikian last night.   some idiot set the fires, then when everybody was evacuating, he robbed their hotel rooms.  so stupid!  does this idiot know how many people can die if the fire spreads???  so hey, if you’re a tourist in Waikiki, sleep with your valuables, and when that fire alarm sounds, run out with your valuables.  it’s sad, but this is reality these days…

 was sitting on the beach at Diamond Head this morning looking at the perfect waves.   then i seen water dripping out of my foil board???  what???  omg!!!  there’s a pin hole…  shock! but seen some of the boys out so i couldn’t resist.  it was a perfect day for the foil!  i was happy when i was up in the air, but sad because i knew water was going into my board.  it was pretty dam depressing… some of the girls were enjoying the moment!  the waves were super clean and perfect.   i still get a lot of comments on my board.  for example, does it have a motor on it?   haha. then went for an evening session with Nishihara-san.  super cool guy that loves to surf!   then seen a super cool friend that loves to surf too.  good riding Brittney!   then the set of day comes in and i yell “GO!!!”  Nishihara-san turned around and paddled into this beauty!  i was so stoked for him!!!thank you for the amazing wave riding!  hope to see you again in the wonderful sea…