Nao-san’s final day of her dream surf vacation has come.  and we left off where we started, right at Diamond Head.  bigger waves, stronger current, but that’s no problem for this girl.  getting a few waves before jumping on a flight back to Japan is always my advice for everyone.  and this girl listens really good!   jump into the warm water at sunrise, watch the sky turn blue and the ocean turn emerald.  paddle out with the flow and ride a wave that Mother Nature serves up.  you just can’t beat this feeling… Toda-san and Takami-san have been photographers, coaches, cheerleaders, and everything else you would want in a friend.  so when i’m in the ocean with them, i’m a very happy surfer. so good to see Takami-san in the perfect rhythm of the ocean.  catching the best waves and surfing it with speed, power, and flow.  Takami-san use to be a JPSA judge so she knows how to turn a 6 point wave into a 8 point ride.  just like this. after a year, finally Toda-san figured it out!  this guy never gave up and now he’s flying like a free bird.   and just like that, he’s doing cutbacks already!  i just love watching foilers transform from falling to flying… i saw the most frustrated man turn into the happiest man in the world!  just in one week!!! to see this girl start off from the very beginning, to where she is today, i’m totally amazed.  better surfing and better life for sure.  i can see it in her surfing, and i can see it in her smile.  good job Nao-san!  have a safe flight back to Japan.   put back on your work face and try to hide that dark tan of yours.  and try not to smile too much because not everybody will like it.  haha.   a very hot and very happy day.  thank you guys! peace.  this is the last day of calm Diamond Head for a while because the strong trade winds are coming back tomorrow.  hope you didn’t miss it!

 when Cousin Dino gave us this fresh piece of deer, all i was thinking about was sashimi!  my first time!  where’s the wasabi and shoyu?  haha.   this is the best cut off the deer.  tender, clean, and fresh.   we ate this raw, sashimi style.  it tasted like maguro!   i took this teenage girl up a secluded mountain a couple years ago.  it was to learn about nature and survival.  we ended up having a free healthy meal after… Todaheli making Hawaii even more beautiful than it already is… hi Namikoshi-san, hope you had a safe trip back to Japan!  you guys scored!!!  the homeless problem is getting worst and worst.  but these locals chose to live for free rather than working 2 jobs and paying overpriced rent or mortgage.  i don’t blame them… hanging out at any local beach, you just never know who you will run into.  this day, it was Lance Hookano.  i’ve known and surfed with Lance for 30 years.  he’s one Hawaiian that i would not want to get mad.  i’ve seen it before and it’s not pretty.  anyway, this guy is like a big brother to me.  we can talk for hours and hours about the good old days…  good to see you Big Brother, or also my Big Bodyguard.  haha…

Tokukura-san in the Dark Room…

Good morning 5:10am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.

Light morning winds becoming trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going dawn patrol.

Have a wonderful day!