Rainbow Day!

 so happy to surf with Kurane-san!  a very nice man with lots of determination.  this was his first wave! good man and good smile too. then it was Harumi-san’s turn.  perfect everything!   this is how you’re supposed to stay calm and cool.  just smile like this!   Kurane-san’s been surfing for 10 years, and now i’m sure he’ll be surfing for another 20 years from now. happy day! Harumi-san kept on wanting to ride more and more waves.  she was so energetic and happy! nice rides and nice smile! then we went for a family lunch.  Mai-chan is the cutest little girl!!! Waiola shave ice is the best!  thank you guys for the wonderful time!Mai-chan is 5 years old and i’m hoping to take her surfing very soon!  nice smile, and nice rainbow shave ice!

then went to pick up Nakahodo-san for the biggest surf of his life!  it was pumping double overhead or Hawaiian scale 6′!   we scored!!!  that story coming soon but i have to go to a family party right now.  eat, laugh, sleep…

Fun, Surf, and Sun!

 i let Mateus jump on my motorcycle.  i told him to start the engine and he figured it out. then once the engine came on and made the loud noise, he looked at me with the biggest smile.  he was so excited! if you ever buy a shell in Hawaii, i hope you understand that it’s probably imported from the Philippines.  yes, almost 99% of shells in Hawaii are imported.   10 year ago these stickers were made.  now, we’re just older and wiser… yesterday evening at Diamond Head was amazing!  we paddled out right before sunset and it was perfect!   Toda-san flew his drone and didn’t miss a thing.  Nao-san got a super nice collection of drone footage!  lucky girl!   i surfed Diamond Head over 10,000 times and i’m still in awe on how beautiful it is.   want to thank Toda-san for getting a couple of my rides.  it felt so good flying in the most beautiful place in the world.   i think i’m to a point where i can honesty say “i’m very satisfied with my ocean life.  i never thought i’d be flying like this!”flying in the ocean or flying on the land, it’s all good.  and when you’re with such special people, it’s even better.  thank you guys for all the super fun days we’ve been having.  when i say jump, you jump!  haha…

July 7, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Diamond Head magic!

Good morning 5:40am.

New BIG South Swell!

Ala Moana overhead and perfect!

Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!