i let Mateus jump on my motorcycle.  i told him to start the engine and he figured it out. then once the engine came on and made the loud noise, he looked at me with the biggest smile.  he was so excited! if you ever buy a shell in Hawaii, i hope you understand that it’s probably imported from the Philippines.  yes, almost 99% of shells in Hawaii are imported.   10 year ago these stickers were made.  now, we’re just older and wiser… yesterday evening at Diamond Head was amazing!  we paddled out right before sunset and it was perfect!   Toda-san flew his drone and didn’t miss a thing.  Nao-san got a super nice collection of drone footage!  lucky girl!   i surfed Diamond Head over 10,000 times and i’m still in awe on how beautiful it is.   want to thank Toda-san for getting a couple of my rides.  it felt so good flying in the most beautiful place in the world.   i think i’m to a point where i can honesty say “i’m very satisfied with my ocean life.  i never thought i’d be flying like this!”flying in the ocean or flying on the land, it’s all good.  and when you’re with such special people, it’s even better.  thank you guys for all the super fun days we’ve been having.  when i say jump, you jump!  haha…

Diamond Head magic!

Good morning 5:40am.

New BIG South Swell!

Ala Moana overhead and perfect!

Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 Nao-san’s final day of her dream surf vacation has come.  and we left off where we started, right at Diamond Head.  bigger waves, stronger current, but that’s no problem for this girl.  getting a few waves before jumping on a flight back to Japan is always my advice for everyone.  and this girl listens really good!   jump into the warm water at sunrise, watch the sky turn blue and the ocean turn emerald.  paddle out with the flow and ride a wave that Mother Nature serves up.  you just can’t beat this feeling… Toda-san and Takami-san have been photographers, coaches, cheerleaders, and everything else you would want in a friend.  so when i’m in the ocean with them, i’m a very happy surfer. so good to see Takami-san in the perfect rhythm of the ocean.  catching the best waves and surfing it with speed, power, and flow.  Takami-san use to be a JPSA judge so she knows how to turn a 6 point wave into a 8 point ride.  just like this. after a year, finally Toda-san figured it out!  this guy never gave up and now he’s flying like a free bird.   and just like that, he’s doing cutbacks already!  i just love watching foilers transform from falling to flying… i saw the most frustrated man turn into the happiest man in the world!  just in one week!!! to see this girl start off from the very beginning, to where she is today, i’m totally amazed.  better surfing and better life for sure.  i can see it in her surfing, and i can see it in her smile.  good job Nao-san!  have a safe flight back to Japan.   put back on your work face and try to hide that dark tan of yours.  and try not to smile too much because not everybody will like it.  haha.   a very hot and very happy day.  thank you guys! peace.  this is the last day of calm Diamond Head for a while because the strong trade winds are coming back tomorrow.  hope you didn’t miss it!