WOW!!!!  Nakahodo-san made a request to surf at one of the secret spots i took him before.  how did he know it was solid 6′ and only 4 guys out???  good request man!    i short boarded and had a hard time paddling into the sets.  Nakahodo-san caught the sets with ease.  the right board for the right day!   one huge set came in and broke on everybody.  this guys leash on his Costco board broke and he started panicking.  he was screaming “HELP!!  I’M GOING TO DROWN!  HELP!!!”  i paddled up to him and said “hey, calm down!”  he was panicking and freaking out saying that he was going to drown.  i said “hey, i won’t let you drown so just calm down.  just relax and i’ll guide you in.”  it’s this guys lucky day because there are no lifeguards, and this spot is infected with huge tiger sharks.  i hope i won’t be seeing him out there for a while.  his friend paddled out later and said “thank you dude.  it’s time for my friend to invest into another leash.”  i told him “no, it’s time for you friend to invest in a brain.  there is no way he should have been out here.”   it’s kind of funny because Nakahodo-san saw the guy panicking and now understands why i always teach him not to panic.   i told him “you panic, you die.”   and if nobody was out this day, that guy would be dead for sure…  keep calm and you have a chance at least… thank you Nakahodo-san for the fresh andagi from Okinawa!   so moist and so tasty!  i felt like i was in Okinawa for a minute!   then i got invited to the Red Sea House in Kaneohe for dinner.  i already knew i would gain 10lbs in 30 minutes.  this is just the appetizer table.   fresh homemade ahi poke.  fresh ono sashimi with spicy ahi poke.   marinated aji with green peppers from Papa Crow’s garden.  when ever i come here, i feel like i’m coming home.  the Nakamoto Family is the perfect example of the perfect Japanese/American family in Hawaii.  so kind, so warm, so inviting, and so loving.  thank you always for sharing the love.  the kind of love that makes me feel so good…

 Life in a Bikini…Life in Waikiki…

Good morning 6:50am.

HUGE South Swell continues…

Ala Moana 5′ and GOOD!

Diamond Head 6′ sets and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Cloudy but good surf.

Going foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

 so happy to surf with Kurane-san!  a very nice man with lots of determination.  this was his first wave! good man and good smile too. then it was Harumi-san’s turn.  perfect everything!   this is how you’re supposed to stay calm and cool.  just smile like this!   Kurane-san’s been surfing for 10 years, and now i’m sure he’ll be surfing for another 20 years from now. happy day! Harumi-san kept on wanting to ride more and more waves.  she was so energetic and happy! nice rides and nice smile! then we went for a family lunch.  Mai-chan is the cutest little girl!!! Waiola shave ice is the best!  thank you guys for the wonderful time!Mai-chan is 5 years old and i’m hoping to take her surfing very soon!  nice smile, and nice rainbow shave ice!

then went to pick up Nakahodo-san for the biggest surf of his life!  it was pumping double overhead or Hawaiian scale 6′!   we scored!!!  that story coming soon but i have to go to a family party right now.  eat, laugh, sleep…