One road, one life.  Don’t waste it…

Good morning 5:15am.

Ala Moana waist high and onshore.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

South/East winds at 10mph.

Clouds, sun, showers, and clearing up.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 everybody thought the water was going to be dirty this morning because of the heavy rain.  wrong!  Oshima-san and i paddled out and surfed in crystal clear ocean!   imaging being out at Ala Moana at 7:30am and not a single person around for miles.  we had the ocean all to ourselves and had a great time!   talking story, waiting for waves, and laughing the whole way.  happy ride, happier smile!  good job Oshima-san!  thank you and have a safe flight back to Japan you lucky man! the waves and rides were so nice!   if you know a little about tides, winds, and currents, you can find yourself either on the good side of the ocean, or the bad side of the ocean?   the left is good, the right is bad… we watched this guy paddle right by us straight to the dirtiest water at Bowls.  he had no idea he was surfing in polluted water, and we were surfing in clear ocean.  i actually felt sorry for him, but didn’t want him coming near us so kept quiet.  it’s a surfers kind of thing.  haha. thank you Oshima-san for the Jack and Dom.  can’t wait guys!   then went for a foil session this afternoon with my friends.  friends, foils, smiles, and happiness… was in Molokai following this car.  noticed something sticking out of the window? it was the drivers foot!  haha.  this car pulled over a few mile up the road and the girl driver got out of the car.  haha!  that’s so cool!

 when i was surfing with Oshima-san 2 days ago, we went out 6am and it was pretty dark.  but darkness doesn’t matter if good waves are ridden.  smooth surfaces and nobody around us.  very peaceful and very fun… i got a few of my own.  it’s hard to let a perfect wave like this pass on by. Oshima-san told me “i’m so happy i started surfing.”  then i thought how stronger his body has become.  and how stronger is mind has become too.  so yeah, i seen this man transform into a very strong and confident surfer.  and that makes me the happiest man in the world.   we came in at 7:30am and it was still dark and gray.  then i headed straight to the airport and jumped on the next flight. ???  blue sky???  really?  we literally flew out of the gray right into sky blue… then we started to prepare for our dinner party.  picked up some grass fed kalbi, soaked it, and was ready for the best kalbi ribs in the world.   woke up yesterday to a few texts from friends talking about the rain and thunder on Oahu.  it was hard to believe because the weather was absolutely gorgeous.  we got up and 5am and didn’t miss a thing.   we’ve done this before so Toda-san and Takami-san know this is routine.  so before we sleep i say “see you guys up on the hill at sunrise.”   then we can watch the sky turn from purple, to blue, to orange, to pink, and to paradise… then the sad part of coming home.  we basically flew out from the sky blue to dark gray again.   and from no traffic lights and cars to a major traffic jam.  and to make it worst, heavy rain!  i was driving home watching all the cars driving so fast, all the people cutting each other off, and absolutely no manners.  ahhhh, back to reality…