Welcome to Paradise!!!

Good morning 5:40am.

Ala Moana chest high sets and coming up!  New South swell coming…

Diamond Head shoulder high and overhead by tomorrow.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going doctor.

Have a wonderful day!

 i was so happy to take Oikawa-san out for his very first surfing experience.  he’s 54 years old so i asked him why he decided to surf.  he told me that his surfer son recently told him “Dad you have to experience surfing at least once in your life.”   so that once was today!   Oikawa-san was very nervous like normal, but he popped up perfectly on this very first wave of his life!  then all the nerves went away.  it was amazing!   these are the smiles i love.  words can’t describe how stoked it feels after an amazing ride!   then it was perfect ride one after the other.  we ended up on the outside catching sets.  all i heard  this morning was “fun, happy, and one more!”  haha… then went for a poke bowl!  thank you Oikawa-san for the wonderful morning.  after coming to Hawaii 17 times, you finally experienced Hawaii as a surfer.  i want to thank your son for encouraging you to go for it.  i’m sure i’ll see you in the water again… Ono Seafood combo choices #1 and #7.  you can’t go wrong…  it’s been pretty dam hot this past week.  these kind of temperatures are unheard of in June.  and it’s only going to get hotter from now.  thank goodness for the cool trade winds…  and thank goodness for my favorite Teapresso Bar!  the black sugar milk tea is the best way to cool down!   then i went for an afternoon session with Mai-chan! Seth asked me for one of my secret fishing spots. i told him where to go on his jetski, and i told him to take his biggest lure.  i wonder how he did???

 omg, did you see the protests in Hong Kong?  if you have a million people showing up to a protest, something must be wrong.   and one million people can easily overtake a government.  scary! kind of happy the travel restrictions went up again for Cuba recently.   keep Cuba Cuba! heard about this famous Japanese singer Ayumi Hamasaki that’s getting criticized on social media?  some people didn’t like the fact that she was sitting in a shopping cart posing for this photo right here in Kakaako.  really?  i just have one thing to say to Ayumi Hamasaki, “you did nothing wrong, but it’s your fault for being on Instagram.”  and i just have one thing to say to the haters, “wake up and get a life…”   want to thank Toda-san and Takami-san for bringing me all this fish!!! ever since Korea, i’ve been on a fish, rice, and miso soup diet every night.  now i have one more week of fish diet!   and when i finish all this, i’ll be back to my normal 160lbs…  itadakimasu!  gosh, i just love this bike!  i can drive on sidewalks, i can drive on the beach, i can drive in the mountains, i can drive on the freeway, and i can drive anywhere!  and parking is free!   Tony seems to like it too!  haha…the 2 kids came to my house to keep me happy.  Mateus calls me a pirate, and Kaira gets scared looking at my eye.  haha…