You don’t own me.  Nobody does…

Good morning 5:40am.

Ala Moana chest high and getting bigger.  New swell coming.

Diamond Head head high and good.

Light winds at 10mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going foiling and foiling!

Have a wonderful day!

 had my 2 week eye checkup this morning.  was pretty nervous because i didn’t want my doctor to scold me.  i’ve been a pretty good boy other than a few times i kind of broke the rules… he came in, looked at my eye, and said “perfect!”  come back in 3 weeks.  but for now, try not to get your eye wet…  in other words, he gave me the green light to get back to my wonderful life!   i had my foil in my car because i’m very optimistic.  my eyes don’t get wet because i’m a professional at closing one eye all the time.  so from the hospital, i went straight to the beach.  bolted on my foil, and had the time of my life!  i was only going to catch a few waves, but ended up catching 2 weeks worth.  gotta make up right?  haha…  omg, i felt like i was reborn today!   then headed to the North Shore to pick up some fresh surfboards.  the weather was as good as it gets!   LYCHEE?  stepped on the brakes and pulled over!  i love Lychee!  so good to see old school style like this.  it use to be like this all over the island before the Wallmart’s and Costco’s ruined everything.  got a bag for $20.  kind of expensive but it’s not about price, it’s about supporting the local economy.  these are the juiciest lychee in the world!!!  i love it…

 OMG!  this guy was driving drunk near Ala Moana.  he went through a red light and hit a guy on a moped.  he left without helping the moped rider, who later died.  he went to court and guess how long he’s going to jail?  30 days!!!!  OMG!  he killed a guy because he was drunk, he ran away and let the guy die on the street, and now he only gets 30 days in jail?  what about the family for the man that died?  no justice in Hawaii.  so sad, and so angry!   moving on to happier things, Mai-chan always brings happiness to Hawaii.  very positive and very smart on enjoying her life.   and surfing really good.  just paddling out and connecting to the ocean.  very smooth and very stylish. i can’t believe this girl couldn’t even surf when i met her!  now she’s doing the Kelia Moniz cross step with ease… the waves were so beautiful!  i love high tide Bowls because the waves go on forever… Toda-san was out practicing on the foil.  and practice must be working because i saw him get a couple long rides!   warm water bikini surfing… thank you Mai-chan for the wonderful days of surfing.  keep on growing, and keep on surfing…came home and guess who was in my garage?  it was Mateus with his new toy!!!  so cute!!!