Backside Diamond Head

217

 OMG!  this guy was driving drunk near Ala Moana.  he went through a red light and hit a guy on a moped.  he left without helping the moped rider, who later died.  he went to court and guess how long he’s going to jail?  30 days!!!!  OMG!  he killed a guy because he was drunk, he ran away and let the guy die on the street, and now he only gets 30 days in jail?  what about the family for the man that died?  no justice in Hawaii.  so sad, and so angry!   moving on to happier things, Mai-chan always brings happiness to Hawaii.  very positive and very smart on enjoying her life.   and surfing really good.  just paddling out and connecting to the ocean.  very smooth and very stylish. i can’t believe this girl couldn’t even surf when i met her!  now she’s doing the Kelia Moniz cross step with ease… the waves were so beautiful!  i love high tide Bowls because the waves go on forever… Toda-san was out practicing on the foil.  and practice must be working because i saw him get a couple long rides!   warm water bikini surfing… thank you Mai-chan for the wonderful days of surfing.  keep on growing, and keep on surfing…came home and guess who was in my garage?  it was Mateus with his new toy!!!  so cute!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide