Korea is a beautiful country with beautiful colors.  just walking on the street is very interesting! usually i eat Korean food in Hawaii about once a month.  i had 3 Korean meals today so we’ll see how my body reacts.  so far, so spicy!   very interesting foods which i have no idea what it is… keep on walking and keep on looking…then when you see something that looks good, you just go for it!  in this case, rolled ketchup omelet and lots of kim chee again.  itadakimasu!   my eating spree has just begun!

 for the past 3 days, i was so bored that i started looking for a new bike.  then i started researching how to customize it.  then i started researching how to do wheelies on it.   just like this!  then i knew my mind was going crazy!   when my mind starts to go crazy, i either go to the ocean, or i go exploring.  and since my Doctor will get mad at me if i go surfing, i headed to the airport instead. it’s not too sad leaving Hawaii this time at all.   but when i’m flying back, i’m sure i will be totally excited, just like Aquaman.   took my seat, sat back, and started to enjoy the ride.  it felt like i was flying in heaven… and when i eat my favorite snack, i make sure i order every topping available.  movie and ice cream in the sky?  can’t beat it!i watched Aquaman for the first time.  OMG!  it was amazing!  so good to see Hawaiian Local Boy Jason Momoa doing such a great job acting.  and the theme about the ocean people being pissed at the land people was pretty cool.  they threw back all the trash that and wanted to attack the world.  i can totally relate to that!   anyway, that was one movie i watched, the other one was way more deep and emotional.  i’ll get into that one next.  but for now, i’m landing in a country i’ve always wanted to come back to.   it’s been 15 years and i’m so excited!  straight to the street night markets!

 almost 30 years ago, i met this man who had totally changed the course of my life.  Tokura-san inspired me to become a professional surfer, took me all over Japan, then all over the world.  the kind of waves we caught together was magical.  and the people he introduced to me were even more magical.    this particular session was one to remember.  i was shooting photos from a secret spot in Japan watching this legend living the dream life… and when Tokura-san invited me to my first boat trip, my eyes opened wide from that trip on.  watching a volcano erupt in Indonesia, to strange chants coming from the darkness.  those were my first real chicken skin moments… and ever since that first Indonesia boat trip, we were hooked!  going back and back having the time of our lives… not only surfing, fishing too.   those nights floating in the middle of the Indian Ocean eating platters and platters of fresh sashimi.  and drinking ice cold Bintangs one after another.  it was parties every night under the millions of stars… throughout the years, i grew up.  and this man showed me the most wonderful world of surfing.   and if you wonder why i buy so many toys, you can blame Tokura-san.  haha.

if you followed my blog for the past 13 years, you will know this man very well.  and if you knew me for the past 30 years, you will know this man even more.  Tokura-san has been there the whole way… at 60 years old, we jumped on a boat and celebrated Tokura-san’s birthday.  this was his special day, this was his special wave, and you should have seen the big party that followed!   countless times surfing together in Hawaii.  each session adding to the memories…now Tokura-san just turned 70 years old!  omg!  looking so young, feeling so good, and many happy years to come!  Happy Birthday Tokura-san!  sorry i couldn’t make it to you 70th birthday, but you’re always in my heart.

and thank you Takami-san for sending me this photo.  i wish i was there…    see you guys soon!