on the way to Bali, i stopped off in Japan.  ended up at this underground local restaurant one night.  it was so local that i  actually felt like a total outsider.  usually i can blend in to places in Japan, but not here… the last of Bali photos.  it was my first time towing in with a foil so a great learning experience.   2 guys holding the rope and towing in on the same wave.  that was super cool!   foiling side by side with Tony was super cool too.  after Bali, we’re trying to buy a little speed boat so we can tow in at outer reefs here in Hawaii.  it’s going to be crazy this summer!  if you paddle in, you can’t get into waves early like this.  and when you get in early like this, you have the whole ocean as a canvas… i can’t explain what i’m feeling at this moment.  freaking incredible would be an understatement… it’s so cheap in Bali that you can hire private drivers in and out of the ocean.   more foil boys on the way.  this place is going to be a foilers heaven with hundreds of foilers very soon… and at the end of the day, you can’t beat the green bottles and orange sunsets…live the life you love, love the life you live…

Mind.  a beautiful servant, a dangerous master.

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana shoulder high and good.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.  Welcome back rainbows!

Movie time!

Have a wonderful day!

can you believe a guy walked into a store in Waikiki last night, pointed a gun, and took money and cigarettes?  with a gun!  and he never got caught…

then this girl goes back to a hotel room with a tourist, then she texted her friends and told them the room number.  then the friends came, she opened the door, and they beat up and robbed the man.  omg!  and they never got caught…

as for me, i went to see my doctor this morning.  i asked him why i woke up during the surgery.  he said “you were fine.”  i told him “no i wasn’t!”

he took off my bandage but my eye was closed shut.  i couldn’t open it for a while.  and i can feel the stitches irritating it!  anyway, my doctor said my surgery was perfect!   it’s going to swell up and get super red for a week which is normal.  so he told me to keep calm and let it heal on it’s own.

i have to put eye drops in my eye 3x a day.  then ice it for 10 minutes 3x a day.  then he gave me opioids too.  this pain medication is the most addictive drug in America and it’s killing so many people.  even though i’m in pain, i’m scared to take it.  why?  because i have normal friends in Hawaii that got totally addicted to this.  they were so addicted that they had to go to Rehabilitation in the mainland.   and they all told me never to take it…