The Bali/Japanese Foil Movement…

 had tea time in the morning with Tony and Matt.  talking story and getting prepared for our upcoming foil session in Bali!  not too many 5 star hotels that will let you sit in their cafe with shorts and barefoot.  haha… loading up the boat and loading up the boys!   Matt started foiling after we did so he’s still in the “totally stoked” stage.  it’s pretty funny watching him being so excited! in Bali, you can ride pretty much anything, and in this case, pretty much nothing.  all you need is a good foil and happy legs… this is the first day i met Jonny.  super cool Australian who moved to Bali and started up the biggest surf school business around.  now he’s a foiler so we’re instant friends… towards the end of our session, i told the boat man “hey, you want to try?”  he said “yeah!!!”  then jumped off the boat and said “tow me in!”  he didn’t know me, and he didn’t know if i could even drive the boat.  haha.  that’s how excited he was!   i don’t hesitate at all to try all kinds of surf schools around the world.  the price doesn’t matter because i’m trying to learn how to better the job i do.  i’m watching everything that’s happening and i’m learning what’s right, and what’s not.  it’s all about service, experience, respect, and honesty.   then i can come back to Hawaii and try to do a better job.  the things you learn by traveling is priceless… then when you can come home with a super nice photo, it makes that memory a lot better.  my friend Jeff took this photo and gave it to me.  it made me happy and that’s why i make sure each surfer that comes to Hawaii goes back home with a good photo too!   because as a photographer and surfer, memories are priceless…so stoked to see foiling in Japan growing too!  Hayato and Kara-san getting ready for a super session!   can’t wait to foil with you boys someday soon!  keep on flying…

May 24, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

The sweet Tiare!

Good morning 5:25am.

Ala Moana shoulder high and clean.

Diamond Head head and good.

East winds at 10mph.

Sunny and hot.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

Hawaii: The Price of Paradise

 had a wonderful time on a wonderful day with Mr. and Mrs. Konno-san.  super good waves and super good weather.  welcome back to Hawaii to you guys and to me!  haha… Megumi-san popped up on her very first wave.  she surfed it perfectly all morning long!   Konno-san looking super smooth riding from the outside.   nice style and very nice long rides! so happy to surf with you newlyweds today!  Happy Honeymoon in Hawaii! thank you guys for the wonderful day!  and i’m very sorry for dropping you guys off at the wrong hotel.  i thought something was weird when i seen you walking back to the PK Hotel.  opps!  must be the jet lag.  sorry…

finally the government is going to pass the law to make it illegal to swim with the dolphins!!!  i’m so happy because i’m sick of watching the tour boats chase the dolphins and dump hundreds of tourists in the water to chase them all day every day of the year.  i’m happy the dolphins will finally get a chance to rest…

an article came out today about the cost of living in Hawaii.  if you make $67,500/year (7,397,730 yen) or less, you are considered “Low Income” in Hawaii.  that’s crazy!!!  and with the minimum wage at $10/hour, you will have to work 88 hours/week so be able to afford an apartment to rent here.  no wonder so many people are going homeless!!!