Yesterday @ Bowls!  Yeah!!!

Good morning 5:50am.

Ala Moana shoulder high and good.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Trade winds back at 15mph.

Sunny and cooler winds.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

 it was my first time to a surfboard factory in Bali.  i was surprised how good the quality was.  just as good as anywhere else in the world!   when you see Kelly Slater riding Mike Woo’s surfboards, you will understand why Mike is where he is.  from the beginning, he was always a step ahead of the process… and talking about a step ahead?  i’m getting a step ahead because i already ordered a new foil board.  this one is top secret!  people are going to hate me when they see this one.  but recently, i started to love the haters…  haha… went to see my eye doctor yesterday.  he’s been voted the best Doctor for years now.  everything is looking good for next weeks surgery!  so i’ll have a 3 week vacation again!  yeah!!! another best Doctor is Dr. Sato-san.  today we went surfing and it was amazing!  new South swell and lots of waves!  Dr. Sato was too fast for me so i couldn’t keep up… we have the coolest conversations about surfing, Doctors, life, and surfing.  but it’s mostly about surfing.  haha.  pho for lunch.  that was what i dreamt of when i woke up this morning.  thank you Dr. Sato-san for making my dream come true!  everybody’s been asking me how my Bali trip was?  well, by looking at the smiles on our faces, you should know.  hanging out with Tony, Kelia, and my brother Mason was the highlight of the trip.  you should have seen what we did this morning in the ocean.  i haven’t have a laugh like that in years…

 had tea time in the morning with Tony and Matt.  talking story and getting prepared for our upcoming foil session in Bali!  not too many 5 star hotels that will let you sit in their cafe with shorts and barefoot.  haha… loading up the boat and loading up the boys!   Matt started foiling after we did so he’s still in the “totally stoked” stage.  it’s pretty funny watching him being so excited! in Bali, you can ride pretty much anything, and in this case, pretty much nothing.  all you need is a good foil and happy legs… this is the first day i met Jonny.  super cool Australian who moved to Bali and started up the biggest surf school business around.  now he’s a foiler so we’re instant friends… towards the end of our session, i told the boat man “hey, you want to try?”  he said “yeah!!!”  then jumped off the boat and said “tow me in!”  he didn’t know me, and he didn’t know if i could even drive the boat.  haha.  that’s how excited he was!   i don’t hesitate at all to try all kinds of surf schools around the world.  the price doesn’t matter because i’m trying to learn how to better the job i do.  i’m watching everything that’s happening and i’m learning what’s right, and what’s not.  it’s all about service, experience, respect, and honesty.   then i can come back to Hawaii and try to do a better job.  the things you learn by traveling is priceless… then when you can come home with a super nice photo, it makes that memory a lot better.  my friend Jeff took this photo and gave it to me.  it made me happy and that’s why i make sure each surfer that comes to Hawaii goes back home with a good photo too!   because as a photographer and surfer, memories are priceless…so stoked to see foiling in Japan growing too!  Hayato and Kara-san getting ready for a super session!   can’t wait to foil with you boys someday soon!  keep on flying…