the first day i got to the Gold Coast, i went for a warm up surf with Seth.  i wasn’t interested in catching waves, i was more interested in watching how Seth was surfing.  so i sat in the inside and watched him perform.  and yes, i was impressed… speed, power, and flow.  that’s what the judges are looking for and that’s what Seth had.  it was then that i knew Seth was ready to take on the worlds best surfers… i’m really looking forward to going back next year… when i got my first surfboard as a kid, i slept with it.  i was so excited that i couldn’t sleep.  and when i got my new foil board the other day, i couldn’t sleep either.  i was thinking about foiling all night long.   then when i caught my first wave on my new board, i knew it was magic.  it was working exactly how i wanted it to.  i’m so excited in fine tuning my equipment and working my way into the barrel this Summer… i can’t believe i still have my jellyfish bites on my back.  maybe that’s why i can’t sleep too?  in Waikiki, this couple made friends with a 26 year old Japanese girl tourist.  they took her back to their hotel room and sexually assaulted her for 28 hours!  this is freaking crazy because the lady who did that is Japanese too.  how could you do that???

I feel like a flying teenager!  haha…

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head chest high and perfect.

Light winds so perfect morning and evening conditions.  Onshore in the day.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing, foiling, and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 Golden Week continues!  had a great time with Fukuhara-san this morning.  super cool surfer from Tokyo.  we rode different boards today to enjoy the ride in different ways.  the longboard equals long rides.  and the short board for more excitement!  perfect form!   thank you Fukuhara-san for the awesome surf session.  you surfed so good!   along the way, i was having fun surfing too.  then went to surf with Ai-san.  the waves were super glassy and super fun.  look at this beautiful ride! keeping calm and enjoying the ride to the fullest.   great surfing today Ai-san!  we were so lucky to surf empty waves and hopefully tomorrow we can do the same.   then drove by Diamond Head later this evening.  the waves were too good to pass up.  50 surfers so too crowded for surfing, but for foiling, the crowd doesn’t matter.  i got my new foil board yesterday from Carl Shaper.  i count’ wait to try it out!   this board is built for speed.  it was going so fast that i couldn’t  control it!  haha…i’m heading to Bali next week and my friend Mike Woo is making me a foil board!  omg!  so stoked!   i can’t wait to foil the wave of my life!!!  thanks Mike!

surfed 3 rounds totaling 6.5 hours today.  tomorrow i’ll be doing the same thing as Golden Week comes to an end.  then next Thursday starts my personal Golden Week!  can’t wait to fly, eat, foil, and laugh…