Watch my Back

 clearing up my desktop.   these are the last of the Goldie Coast…  Signature Foil Shop in Coolengata. rain or shine, we were foiling no matter what. Tony Moniz at Kirra. Matt O’Rourke at Snappers. Me at Rainbow Bay. Me very happy.   Tony and i were the happiest guys on the Gold Coast.   Chart House live music and lots of laughs night.  thank you girls!   WYC night life. rain or shine, these locals show up.   yes, sometimes i like to be a tourist too. and yes everybody, “A Magic Board could change your Life!”

May 4, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Calm and relaxing day in the ocean…

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana chest high and very challenging.  But we like challenging!

Diamond Head shoulder high and super bumpy.

South/West winds at 20mph.

Sun, clouds, hot, rain, weird weather.

Going surfing.  Only the hardcore will be out.

Have a wonderful day!

Golden Oxtail Surfers Stew in Hawaii

once you start surfing better, your life will be better.  i saw Oshima-san transform into a better surfer and a happier man in just a few days.   this is the real Golden Week!

this is absolutely perfect style and perfect surfing.  so stoked!!!

tomorrow will be last day of Boot Camp and Oshima-san will go back to Japan a brand new surfer!

great job and great laughs again!!!

i was super hungry so went to my secret restaurant and ordered the juicy oxtail stew plate!

then picked up Kimura-san for an afternoon session.  this time, i took my foil and got the exact photo i wanted to get!   i took off at Bowls, rode to Rockpiles, then back to Bowls and started shooting.  this was the first shot.

then i pumped right in front of Kimura-san and got this one.  you can see the trail on my foil.  before we did this, i told Kimura-san “please please please don’t look at me.  if you do, we will crash.  look forward and keep calm please please please.”  and this is the result!

then i passed him and shot from behind.  all these beautiful photos on one wave.  when i get my new bigger foil, i’ll be shooting guys from Queen’s to Bowls on one wave.  haha…

then we surfed and surfed until we got too sunburnt.  called it a day and left the ocean with the happiest feeling…

another Golden day during Golden week in Golden Hawaii!  see you guys bright and early tomorrow morning!