Golden Oxtail Surfers Stew in Hawaii

245

once you start surfing better, your life will be better.  i saw Oshima-san transform into a better surfer and a happier man in just a few days.   this is the real Golden Week!

this is absolutely perfect style and perfect surfing.  so stoked!!!

tomorrow will be last day of Boot Camp and Oshima-san will go back to Japan a brand new surfer!

great job and great laughs again!!!

i was super hungry so went to my secret restaurant and ordered the juicy oxtail stew plate!

then picked up Kimura-san for an afternoon session.  this time, i took my foil and got the exact photo i wanted to get!   i took off at Bowls, rode to Rockpiles, then back to Bowls and started shooting.  this was the first shot.

then i pumped right in front of Kimura-san and got this one.  you can see the trail on my foil.  before we did this, i told Kimura-san “please please please don’t look at me.  if you do, we will crash.  look forward and keep calm please please please.”  and this is the result!

then i passed him and shot from behind.  all these beautiful photos on one wave.  when i get my new bigger foil, i’ll be shooting guys from Queen’s to Bowls on one wave.  haha…

then we surfed and surfed until we got too sunburnt.  called it a day and left the ocean with the happiest feeling…

another Golden day during Golden week in Golden Hawaii!  see you guys bright and early tomorrow morning!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide