Yesterday @ Ala Moana…

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana chest high and clean.

Diamond Head shoulder high and clean.

Light winds so perfect morning conditions.

Clouds and maybe heavy rain.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 so happy to surf with Fuji-san this morning.  it was only his 2nd time surfing so i knew we’d have fun!  from the first wave to the last, it was all smiles!   a newborn surfer!  Fuji-san is going to be in Hawaii for a year so i’m pretty sure you’ll see this guy in the water pretty often.   Tatsu-san comes to Hawaii pretty often too.  good to see him surfing so good again! as you can see, the waves were pretty fun!  lefts or rights all morning long. after the first 30 minutes, Fuji-san started to catch waves on his own.  he was so stoked that he didn’t want to go in.  haha. i had a blast riding a 11’0 today.  this is a board you can’t control so you just have to let it control you.   Tatsu-san ripping on the short board.  super cool guy with cool dreams.  thank you boys for the wonderful day!  then went to eat a poke bowl while watching the waves and whales at Diamond Head.  then dropped off the boys and went for Round 2!

 look what the lifeguards pulled out of the water in Waianae!!! omg, an unintended net!!!   some assholes put a net in the ocean and didn’t go check it within a few hours which is the law.  so sad!   i almost threw up when i saw these photos.  this is total disrespect for the ocean.   i hope they catch these guys and put them in jail.   if the police don’t catch them, then karma will.  both would be better.   i was watching the contest and seen Owen Wright break his surfboard.  he came back to the beach to get his backup board and there was no wax on it.  and he had to borrow wax to wax it.  are you kidding me???   then the next heat, Jermey Flores broke his board too and he came in and there was no backup board waiting for him.  so he had to run up the long stairs to the competitors area.   i was watching him thinking to myself “what are these guys doing?  where’s their caddy’s?  aren’t they supposed to be professionals?”   you’re supposed be surfing when your heat is in the water, not running up and down stairs like this to get your board.  then his board didn’t even have wax on it?  are you kidding me?  when i was in Australia, this was my job for Seth.  i always had 2 spare boards waxed up, leashed up, and ready to go at all times.  that’s how it’s supposed to be right?   i was so shocked watching this…