Wish you were here…

Good morning 5:50am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head shoulder high and good.

Light trade winds at 10mph.

Sunny and very warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

Hattori-san landed in Hawaii at 7:30am, then we were surfing at 9:30am.  this is how you maximize you’re Golden Week!  as for me, this was already my second round of surfing this morning.  so yeah, i’m maximizing my Golden Week too!   haha… it’s so cool to see everybody improving.  just more relaxed and cooler style.   i just love this view!  i’m sure Hattori-san loves it too.   there was a contest at Bowls today so the Hawaiian Water Patrol was kicking everybody out of the water.  good thing these guys are my friends.  haha.  thanks boys!   Hattori-san was lucky to be able to surf pretty much uncrowded surf.   long rides and happy smiles… after 2 rounds of surfing, it was still before lunch time.  so went to the hardware store to start my afternoon project. lucky to have a truck.  there’s no other way.  spent 4 hours of construction after this.  blood, sweat, and tears…   then came home to watch Seth’s heat.  bummer he didn’t advance, but happy he’s coming back home tomorrow.  a week to rest and reset before heading to Bali.  that one, i’m not missing!  good job in Australia Seth!  you got 5th and 9th place which is a great way to start off your rookie season.  i’m seriously thinking about taking this year off from work so i can go on tour with you.  you surf, and i’ll foil.  haha…

 i was waiting all day yesterday for Seth’s heat.  and once it started, i was going to drop everything.  it finally happened at 7:30pm so imagine how tired i was.  haha.   but once Seth took off on his first wave, i already knew this kid was on fire!   Kelly Slater surfed the first heat and got 6 point rides.  Filipe Toledo surfed the heat right before Seth’s and got 7 point rides.  then Seth got the first 8 point ride of the day.  yes everybody, this is how Seth operates.  he’s watching the giants all day and thinking to himself “shit, i can do better than that.”  the commentators were saying that Seth is surfing like a veteran.  no guys, he’s surfing more like a World Champion… do you guys know how stressful it is to be there watching it live?  after Snappers, i aged 10 years.  imagine how Tony and my sister feel??? i can’t express how thankful i am for all of you who support and have been supporting Seth all these years.  i have guys coming up to me all day everyday telling me how happy they are watching Seth.  some people i know, some people i don’t know.  it’s an amazing feeling… Seth knows how to win, and Seth knows how to lose.  that’s the part i love about this kid… get use to watching him give his winners speech.  the 5th time already so far this year and the 2nd contest isn’t even finished yet…as the swell builds, Seth is taking on Filipe Toledo.  that’s going to be an amazing heat happening today!!!

CLICK HERE WORLDSURFLEAGUE.COM TO WATCH!!!