Good job Seth!  Go kill the giants again today!!!

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana chest high sets and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high sets and good.

Light trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm day.

Going foiling and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

woke up early, drove along the coast, and pulled over at beautiful Diamond Head.  only 3 other surfers out so it looked too inviting.  grabbed my foil, hiked down the mountain, and was out there flying like a bird!  Feel the Freedom!!!

then had my eye doctor appointment this morning too.  always freaking so nervous because my first eye surgery 10 years ago was a nightmare.  i actually woke up during the surgery!!!  omg!

the good news was, i can see.  the bad news was, yes, i will need surgery.  how did i react?   i thought about what my grandparents taught me “shikataganai.”

 this was my Ptergium in my left eye 10 years ago.  if you surf as much a i do, you will eventually get it.  and the only way to get rid of it is surgery.  so yeah, since i have to stay out of the water for 3 weeks, i’m thinking of it as my vacation…and these will be my sunglasses at day, and at night for a while.   pretty cool yeah?  scheduling my surgery for this year.  but before that, scheduling my vacation.  haha…

check out my lunch today.  the best Filipino food on Oahu!

want to thank the ladies for the wonderful week we just had together.  throughout the laughs and the tears, i really needed this time to reflect on the past, the present, and the future.  i couldn’t have gotten through this past year without you guys.  thank you for always being there for me…  we shall meet again very soon…

 as you must all know, i’m Seth’s biggest fan.  haha.  and i still can’t believe he’s on the World Surf Tour!  i don’t want to miss a thing… speaking of Seth, i was looking at his feet in Australia.  it’s like a frog and that’s why he sticks to his board.  our family jokes and calls this the Fukunaga feet.     yes, this is the Fukunaga feet.  actually the Kirby Fukunaga feet.  my feet.  haha.   i was at the gas station yesterday and seen this amazing classic Porsche.  of course i had to go take a closer look… everything was original and so was the owner.  something like this is worth over $200,000.  the owner is priceless.   made in 1960 and still looking new.  can you believe this car is almost 60 years old?   just an emblem like this is worth a lot.   things use to be so simple back in the 60’s.  remember this is a Porsche.   and this was luxury back in the 60’s.  so classic and so cool.i was talking to the owner.  he told me he’s the original owner and this car has never changed hands.  then i couldn’t believe it when he told me he was 90 years old!!!   i hope to look good and cool like this when i’m 90!   amazing…