Asayama-san really wanted to meet Seira-chan.  so this morning, we went surfing together.   i knew they would get along and respect each other.  one young surfer girl, and one young surfer boy… it’s been a month since there were waves like this at Bowls.  so i told Seira-chan in the parking lot “go out and just have fun on your last day.  all the training is finished, now go surf and enjoy it.”   then she took off and started ripping!!!  wow!!!   one of the local ladies at Bowls saw Asayama-san surfing and told me “he is my hero!”  i replied “he is my hero too!”   a month ago, this young girl would look a little lost when we would surf a different spot.  now, everywhere we go, she figures it out and just connects.  connecting with the ocean takes people many years to do, in fact, some never ever connect.  but Seira-chan figured it out in just a few weeks.   after Asayama-san saw Seira-chan surf so good, he stepped up his game.   surfing together brings out the best in everyone.   that’s why i encourage surfing with others… last day, last wave.  it was a sad day for me because it’s always so hard to say goodbye.  i had a great month with this special girl.  but i know this world is very small so i’m sure we will surf together again soon… then went back this evening to surf with Ueda-san.  fresh off the airplane, straight into his first wave of the day!   why not surf the day you arrive to Hawaii?   if it can make you smile like this, you should!   i counted 15 waves Ueda-san rode this evening.  all so perfect!    and since it was uncrowded, i had to get a couple of my own.  hope you get a good sleep and see you bright and early tomorrow morning!

 i remember when i was in intermediate school.  the monthly bus pass was only $5.  and one ride to anywhere on the island was only 10 cents.  how time has changed… and speaking of times changing, i was in Kakaako yesterday and couldn’t believe how many tall buildings there were.  i thought i was in another country.   why be same right?  so Asayama-san decided to be like me, which is different.  haha. throw the old pair away. and go with the new trend.  haha.  now there are only 2 people on this island with non-matching slippers.  haha… really loved this Hawaiian plate!  and always love this mans company.  you’ll probably hear us laughing everywhere we go for the next couple of weeks.  haha…

Someday very again soon!

Good morning 5:50am.

North shore chest high and bumpy.  Big swell tomorrow.

Ala Moana chest high and good.  Bigger tomorrow.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Strong trade winds at 25mph.

Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.

Going surfing!

Have a wonderful day!