omg, i’ve been taking this Father and Son surfing since the kid was 5 years old. now they’re surfing together. i set out early this morning to get the perfect photo of them i’ve been trying to for the past 8 years. when i came home, i couldn’t believe how perfect it was! sorry can’t post it for privacy reasons, but it’s in my top 2 of all time Father and Son photos…
Mr. Rainbow wanted to greet a colorful man back to Hawaii!
welcome back Asayama-san!!! so happy to see your smile again!
we paddled out this evening and the new South Swell showed up early. that means it’s going to get big and last for a very long time!
last time Asayama-san came to Hawaii, i sucked at foiling. no way i would even attempt to foil near him. but now, things are different. so today i set out to get the perfect foil drone shot!
and here it is! Asayama-san surfing so comfortable right off the airplane. imagine freezing cold in Japan a few hours earlier, and now enjoying Summer like conditions in Hawaii. look how beautiful this wave and ride is!
one of the guys asked me how i do this? i told him, “it’s all about trust.” if we don’t trust each other, either one or both of us will get hurt badly. you can’t tell by this photo how close i’m foiling in front of Asayama-san, but it’s pretty dam close.
welcome back Mr. Rainbow! get ready for a wonderful 2 weeks of colorful waves, stories, laughs, and experiences…
and if you haven’t heard by now, Kelia Moniz is back on the World Tour! i guess she got jealous of watching her younger brother Seth getting all the exposure. haha. Kelia is back after 4 years off tour, and now she’s going with the flow. and when Kelia goes with the flow, she is dangerous…

the first few days Seira-chan came to Hawaii, i would point out fish, whales, and turtles to her. it would be right in front of her, but she couldn’t see any of them. that’s because her focus was too narrow. now that it’s much wider, she can see everything! so now, she’s pointing out the fish, whales, and turtles to me. just like this one at Laniakea…
it was very cold, raining, and dark, but when your heart is beating, your body warms up very fast. imagine surfing the North Shore for your first time in these dark conditions and trying to keep calm. it’s not that easy…
watching Seira-chan riding wave after wave surfing right by me was a treat. she looked so comfortable, confident, and cool. as a surf coach, this a dream to me…
smartness and coolness can get you very far in life. this girl has both of it…
last week, Seira-chan told me she had good garlic shrimp at Ala Moana Center. really? i felt a little sorry for her so going to Romy’s was on my list. finally, the day has come! i don’t think she will ever eat Garlic Shrimp anywhere else but Romy’s from now on. the best in Hawaii!
passed by Kahana Bay. tiny waves so we just watched some of the North Shore boys foiling…
then stopped by Waimanalo to pick up some delicious Lilikoi Butter! homemade with love…
then stopped by to one of my favorite beachfront views on the island.
then to Sandy Beach where i use to ride my bicycle to every morning before school to bodysurf the shore break.
then to the best shave ice on the island. a full circle island tour with lots of good waves, good food, and good vibes. thank you again Seira-chan for the wonderful day…

